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  1. #81
    Are you going to seal your floor joints? (at some point, not immediately)
    Don't tell me violence doesn't solve anything.

    Look at Carthage.

  2. #82
    Quote Originally Posted by Willie G View Post
    Are you going to seal your floor joints? (at some point, not immediately)
    Yeah I suppose that's a good idea. Still reading a bit about seam sealer. Seems like i just primer and then slather it on underneath. Am I missing anything?

  3. #83
    Maybe top and bottom? Not sure either. If you have enough to do both, it's not something you'll use often.

  4. #84
    I did seam sealer when I tubbed the firewall/inner fender on my Tacoma for the 35s. Bought a tube of the 3m paint/primable stuff from Advance auto. laid it on both sides and pushed it into the welds with my finger. Primered and undercoated the outside, primered on the inside.

    Have had 0 signs of leaks
    break, fix, repeat

  5. #85
    Dave McDonald's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Closer to heaven than most
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    Been meaning to take the time to read through this. I'm glad I did. Nice project and excellent execution. I'm really jealous, as I think I hit the limit of my technical expertise bolting on a 4" lift on the ZJ that I put together rather than spending $$$$$$$ on a kit.

    After you're done if you see some freaking nutcase giving you a thumbs up on the highway from a ZJ, just wave - I'm harmless.
    Lunatic #15
    "A government big enough to give you a righteous buzz is also big enough to harsh your mellow." -Zapp
    Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati

  6. #86
    I've been distracted with other nonsense so haven't gotten much done. My birds are too big for the brooder so I've been hustling to get the coop done, I'm calling it the Ritz Cluckerton. Last weekend my mom asked me to fly her to PHX so that ate up a day and a half. Another friend also needed an inspection done on his airplane so I knocked that out this week too.

    I did get the last section of floor welded in and I cut out and fitted the sides of the tub. Today I welded in the passenger side and it turned out okay.


    It has a bit of a speed bend to it but I think I'll be able to massage it out. I left the bottom long because my neither of my brakes would touch 16 gauge so I have other plans to add a bit of strength to the lower edge, even though I'm hoping to cut it off for boat sides down the road. This thing is definitely intended to be more go than show, so a bit of homebuilt character doesn't bother me too much.

    I may also have a line on slightly bigger tires, so that will complicate life.

  7. #87
    vb's Avatar
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    Sep 2002
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    Its gonna be nice

  8. #88
    It's been a busy few weeks but I think I'm back to focusing on this project.

    The skin that I welded in the other day had a pretty nice speed bend it it. I think half of it was in the sheet before I welded and I probably got a little hot welding it in place to add to the problem. I do a ton of aluminum sheet metal on airplanes, but this was a different challenge. If I was riveting, I'd be done by now.

    Bottom of the tub

    Floor level

    I cut out this strip of 22 gauge

    Put a bend in it with the brake.

    Marked it for holes to spot weld through.

    Drilled it

    And then spot welded it to the bottom of the new panel to give the edge some strength and straighten it out. It helped a bit, but there was still a curve.

    I made another angle to tie the floor in to the side of the tub out of 1" angle. I drilled it on one side to spot weld to the side. The floor was already drilled to weld from the top. I had a dozen clamps and straight square tubing holding everything straight while I welded but I didn't get any pics of it. Afterwards it looked like this.



    Outside is WAY better, plenty good to be covered up by corner armor.

    With all of that done, I moved on to the top edge. I pulled the top and marked out what I needed from the donor panel.

    Dad and I whittled it down to size and clamped it in place.

    It didn't fit worth a damn. The bends in it aren't parallel and the profile doesn't match the factory tub. I found a donor tub locally that the guy will let me cut some out of so I'm heading over there in a bit with my dad. I started tacking in the LH side piece in the mean time. Maybe I'll post that up later.

  9. #89
    Yesterday was a big day mentally. I started by spot welding an angle at the top of the big patch panel on both sides. This took out most of the speed bend which I believe was mostly from the slight curve in the metal prior to installation rather than excess heat from welding it in. Here's a pic of the angle in place.

    Once that straightened things out, I cut up the section of tub rail I bought that other day and fit it in to place. I was making good progress and the phone died so no pics in progress but here is the final result.

    Right side


    There are a few WOWs here and there and it definitely isn't Chip goose show quality, but when I cover up the sins with corner armor it is pretty good. The top rail is straight and should seal to the hard top well.

    I was so excited I had to try on the hard top.

    It feels YUGE back here now.

  10. #90
    F*N station wagon on 37's.

  11. #91
    Looking good!
    CJ/buggy,FI406,465,205,D60,14boltFF on beadlocked 39.50 swampers.See build.
    '70Jeepster, 225,T-14,D20,10bolt,12bolt on 34/9.50/15 Swampers

  12. #92
    vb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Cannnaannnannn yoououuoou hrerererre annnnnnn eccooooooo innnnnnn thhhheeerrrrrr

  13. #93
    K2's Avatar
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    Aug 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willie G View Post
    F*N station wagon on 37's.

    Needs 38s!
    95 ZJ, Lift, dents, and noise.

  14. #94
    Since I got the body about locked in as far as location, I could get back to where I left off with the suspension. I was using a bolt in rear Antirock from currie, but since there isn't much bolt it about this rig, I couldn't make it fit where Currie wanted it. My cage tie-ins were in the way and even if they weren't, the fuel filler line would have interfered. I would have preferred it behind the axle like it was designed to be, and it may end up there down the road, but for now I'm happy with this spot.

    The axle mounts for the sway bar links ended up on the outside of the LCA brackets. In stock form, this probably wouldn't be strong enough, but both the LCA bracket and the Link mount are 1/4", so I think they'll be okay.

    I was trying to reuse the upper shock mounts which were on the bottom of the cage tie-in plates.

    They worked well and allowed for 14" Bilsteins. The lower mounts are from Low Range Offroad and are super compact and have a replaceable stud if you ever break it. It was a balancing act getting them located. Too far inboard and the shock would hit the frame under droop conditions, too far out and the tire would rub when stuffed and the shock would hit the parking brake bracket. I think I found the 1/8" wide sweet spot where all problems are mitigated but we'll see. I have a Yukon Ultimate 88 kit which eliminates the C-clips and is basically bolt on big bearing 9" outers if I'm not mistaken. I had to flip the one bolt for the axle retainer so the head was outboard or it would have been trapped by the shock mount.

    Once all of that was fitted, I did one more mock up with everything installed. I bought a set of OME 2" heavy load springs. According to a lot of digging and research, I think these will give me around 4" of lift on my lighter rig. When installed now they give me around 5 3/4", but I don't have a fuel tank, bumper, spare tire, and rear seat installed, so I think they'll be close to where I want to be. If necessary I'll adjust with a spacer.

    It all fits well, so I pulled the axle and welded the shock mounts and sway bar link mounts in for good. I'll take the axle out to my shop for final assembly this week.

    Once that was done I decided to start fitting the cage.

    I'd read various things about this, but it dropped right and and looked pretty close right off the bat. My buddy Cam stopped by with his TJ, so I took some measurements and we think we got it pretty close. I was planning on cutting off the front feet and welding the main hoop on to a set of YJ builder feet, but with a little trimming, I think everything will line up and be just fine with the LJ feet. More details today as I hope to have this dialed in and done later.

  15. #95
    newracer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Timnath, CO
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    Looking awesome!
    Have you ever seen a man eat so much fish?

  16. #96
    Today has been all about the LJ roll bar. I was expecting A LOT more fab to be required on this, but it damn near fell in to place.

    The first challenge was locating it. It is difficult to identify a datum from which to measure. After studying it for a bit I came up with this.

    This was very repeatable between fittings, and easy to get off of the jeep I had handy to copy. We set the string even with the lower edge of the hardtop and measured square to the roll bar tube and came up with 2 9/16" to 2 5/8". Anything within 1/16" on a jeep is success I've discovered. The roll bar is an anchor for the soft top so I wanted it to be close and I think this will get it there.

    I set the LJ bar in my tub and eyeballed it where it looked about right and then measured and it was damn near perfect. There are 2 pimples on the YJ tub where the body mount is underneath so I had to trim the LJ feet like this.

    Once I did this it fell in to place quite nicely. There was some seam seal down in the corners that I had to clean out and then it got even better. I worked up the nerve to start drilling and now it is bolted down like this.

    When I bolted it down there was a little gap between the floor and the foot on the forward bolt, so I slid a washer in there to take up the slack like this.

    That tightened it up nicely.

    The feet also covered up where the YJ front seat belts attached to the floor so I am planning on using the forward bolt holding the roll bar down. I installed a grade 8, 1/2" bolt fastened through a the floor, a doubler underneath, and the roll bar foot, so I think it will be plenty strong.

    The bolts going outboard in to the box section at the rear door post had poor access to the backside to install a nut. The lower hole in the following picture is original and I added the upper hole.

    Then I connected the dots like this.

    It's still tight, but I can get the hardware in place and get a wrench in there to tighten those 2 bolts.

    Once that was fastened down I moved on to the C pillar mounts. I trimmed off the inboard edge like I marked in the previous post. The outboard bolt hole was so close I just pushed it until I could get a bolt through it and fastened it down. The LJ bolt holes are 5" on center and the YJ is 4". I just tightened down the outboard bolt on both sides and match drilled the inboard holes from underneath. I put a bolt in the inboard side, installed the cage tie-ins underneath, and now it looks like this.

    Now that is anchored and I can weld the tie-ins to the frame, but that's probably tomorrow's project.

    I moved forward to the spreader bars. I attached them to the B-pillar hoop and then used the inboard hole on the spreader and the windshield and put a bolt in it.

    They seem happy but the measurements between the 2 sides seems so wonky that I think I measured something wrong. It looks awesome though.

    I'll have to do some digging or find a rig to measure so I can see how screwed up it it. In the mean time I moved on to the RH windshield hinge. The pin was seized when I started this project and when I folded down the windshield it bent the leaf of the hinge. I ordered new Kentrol hinges because I got suckered in by their youtube video. Dad stopped by today and we dug through a ton of seam seal underneath so I could get to the nuts in the tub. I cleaned up the outside with a wire brush and hit it with some primer and now I'm waiting for it to dry so I can install the new hinge.

  17. #97
    The axle is sitting in the back of my truck waiting to go to the hangar for reassembly, but I rolled a tire over to it tonight just to see...

  18. #98
    Looking great!! You have to be happy with how it is turning out!
    God Forgives, Rock's Don't
    1973 Bronco, 351 SEFI, Locked, discs, 35's ZF-5spd and Atlas 4spd. 235:1 Crawl Ratio

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