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  1. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by Colo.TJ View Post
    Insurance totaled out his truck. They offered him $15K or $11600 and he can keep the truck, which is the estimate to fix it. He's keeping the truck.

    Also, 130,000 miles on it. Said there was no frame damage, so I think he's GTG w/ taking the lower amount and keeping the truck. $15K wouldn't put a dent in the down payment on a new F250 crew cab/diesel.

    yeah, it is absolutely insane what the new trucks go for; It makes sense to keep the truck, even more so if he likes it.
    break, fix, repeat

  2. #42
    ASCTLC's Avatar
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    That's the problem many of us have when we take meticulous care of our stuff, it's only worth anything to us and a book can only have a narrow view.

    When we traded in Tammy's 2003 Grand Cherokee, multiple sales people came out of the dealer to check it out because they rarely see something that old, with over 200k miles in that kind of clean condition (the engine compartment was cleaner than the 20k mile 2016 MKX's we bought (which I have since cleaned)).

  3. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by ASCTLC View Post
    That's the problem many of us have when we take meticulous care of our stuff, it's only worth anything to us and a book can only have a narrow view.

    When we traded in Tammy's 2003 Grand Cherokee, multiple sales people came out of the dealer to check it out because they rarely see something that old, with over 200k miles in that kind of clean condition (the engine compartment was cleaner than the 20k mile 2016 MKX's we bought (which I have since cleaned)).
    It makes sense; I read something about how people who wisen with age find greater value in the things they already have and spend less time chasing new things. If you spend your entire life always chasing the latest and greatest you aren't spending time appreciating the things you have, and if you appreciate what you have it follows that you want to take good care of it and make it last.


    idk I'm just rambling now

  4. #44
    I got my new turbo in the mail this week and have wasted several hours trying to get the turbo to mate with the Y pipe flange. At this rate I don't think I'm going to get the truck put together this weekend.

    If I unbolt the up pipe from the manifold to get it lined up I was told I need to replace those bolts, so at a minimum I'll be waiting for those parts but I also have a line on a new to me factory aluminum cold-side CAC tube so I'll probably also be waiting for that, new boots, and clamps

  5. #45
    Consider stippling both ends of both tubes and then spray with cheap hairspray before assembly.

    With new clamps, the boots won't move....
    Don't tell me violence doesn't solve anything.

    Look at Carthage.

  6. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by Willie G View Post
    Consider stippling both ends of both tubes and then spray with cheap hairspray before assembly.

    With new clamps, the boots won't move....
    I'm not worried about the boots moving. The whole truck doesn't move


    Stippling is a good idea. I had not ever considered that but it seems like it would make a big difference in keeping the boots around

  7. #47
    Ian stopped by today and gave me a sanity check. We stopped due to the weather but it looks like I need to un bolt the y pipe from the manifolds to move it because of how far off it is at the turbo

  8. #48
    idk wtf to do, I got 3/4 bolts loose and the y pipe still has some play but is nowhere close to lining up

  9. #49
    The Original Opie-Gone-Bad!!! Aaron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wulf View Post
    idk wtf to do, I got 3/4 bolts loose and the y pipe still has some play but is nowhere close to lining up
    Yes you do. Stop, take a break. Do something else for a bit. Then look at it with fresh eyes. In the mean time, check out dimensions and make sure that it is the correct parts and that they haven't been modified.

  10. #50
    ASCTLC's Avatar
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    What ever you do, don't drink a bunch of tequila and use a crowbar...BTDT and it don't work out so great.

  11. #51
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
    Yes you do. Stop, take a break. Do something else for a bit. Then look at it with fresh eyes. In the mean time, check out dimensions and make sure that it is the correct parts and that they haven't been modified.
    Yup, I definitely needed to step away, eat lunch and have a beer, and relax a bit. I am pretty sure that everything is OEM but you never know...

    I am wondering if the PO smashed the Y pipe into the firewall and bent it when he installed the engine. At this point I am going to pull it out and see if it can give me some close.

  12. #52
    Quote Originally Posted by ASCTLC View Post
    What ever you do, don't drink a bunch of tequila and use a crowbar...BTDT and it don't work out so great.
    I tried something similar and while I didn't break anything it wore me out and made me angrier

  13. #53
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    your luck with exhaust stuff is kinda sucky lol
    hookers and blow!

  14. #54
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    I don't have a 6.0, but I have had the turbo out of my 7.3 a few times. The exhaust pieces are pretty much similar to my 7.3, so the tricks to get it all back together may be the same also. I will say, every time has been like a monkey/football operation to get it back in. I have found that the best way to do it is leave the turbo unconnected to anything else when you attach the up pipes and clamp. It will float around a bit to line up right. Yeah, one of those jobs you really wish you had a third hand for, but doable with the two you were born with. Once the up pipes are connected, then bolt the turbo down and proceed with the downpipe and the other intake boots. Even with the up pipes loose, I never had enough slop to get things lined up.
    Proudly un-offended.

  15. #55
    Quote Originally Posted by Clod Hopper View Post
    I don't have a 6.0, but I have had the turbo out of my 7.3 a few times. The exhaust pieces are pretty much similar to my 7.3, so the tricks to get it all back together may be the same also. I will say, every time has been like a monkey/football operation to get it back in. I have found that the best way to do it is leave the turbo unconnected to anything else when you attach the up pipes and clamp. It will float around a bit to line up right. Yeah, one of those jobs you really wish you had a third hand for, but doable with the two you were born with. Once the up pipes are connected, then bolt the turbo down and proceed with the downpipe and the other intake boots. Even with the up pipes loose, I never had enough slop to get things lined up.
    Even with Ian's help we weren't able to get it lined up with a ratchet strap and pry bar. I'm betting the up pipe to y pipe is a few degrees off and if I can get that loose I can get the y pipe to line up with the turbo.

    Since I'm in this far I'm thinking I'll pull the y pipe to make sure it's not cracked. I'm also thinking about welding the EGR cooler shut. Although I'm not too worried about that since it is the bulletproof one.

  16. #56
    Quote Originally Posted by tacotoy View Post
    your luck with exhaust stuff is kinda sucky lol
    The Tacoma was my own damn fault because I bought the Chinese JBA knockoffs. I've actually resolved all the leaks...but they hit the frame and rattle when you let off the throttle at high rpms 😂🔫

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wulf View Post
    The Tacoma was my own damn fault because I bought the Chinese JBA knockoffs. I've actually resolved all the leaks...but they hit the frame and rattle when you let off the throttle at high rpms 😂🔫
    Body lift and call it done...


    As for the 6.blow... I would buy all new for everything you touch. it isn't worth worrying about in the future. I watch a buddy go through all sorts of drama after the oil cooler went and he tried to cheap fix it every time.

  18. #58
    Got the Y pipe pulled, looks like it's leaking so I suppose I'll have to order one and wait on that before I can put everything together

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

  19. #59

  20. #60
    Quote Originally Posted by Willie G View Post
    Would it be wrong to buy a new pipe, use it to make my jig, then return it and use the jig to fix my pipe?


    I'm hesitant to trust that mine is true given how far off it was but I could stand to fix mine and save some money after the holiday season

  21. #61
    The problem is that you don't know whether the new pipe that you use for the jig is any better than your current one...

    OTOH, the new bellows might have enough flex to aid the alignment.


    BTW, I still have all those docs on the thumb drive for you....beats having to find them yourself.

  22. #62
    ASCTLC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wulf View Post
    Would it be wrong to buy a new pipe, use it to make my jig, then return it and use the jig to fix my pipe?


    I'm hesitant to trust that mine is true given how far off it was but I could stand to fix mine and save some money after the holiday season
    You have a great welder for just that purpose. My .02: You have nothing to lose to weld up what you have after you bend/tweak it to line up and everything to gain (no more money spent). Pull your skirt up, replace your tampon, and it R welded up!

  23. #63
    Need to recheck all my exhaust connections because I have an awful tea kettle whistle but the Stoopid duty is put together and hauls ass with the new y pipe, turbo, CAC, and a fresh change of T6

  24. #64
    The Original Opie-Gone-Bad!!! Aaron's Avatar
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    Woohoo! Congrats!

  25. #65
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
    Woohoo! Congrats!


    Took the truck to the store again today and drove it around for a bit and it's running great aside from the whistle which is really loud. Interestingly it only appears above like 750rpm or so; it doesn't exist at idle.

    I'll also have to check the CAC boots, intake, degas cap too.

  26. #66
    cheftyler's Avatar
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    Well done!
    "Blow and Hookers can change the World. - Gags
    Quote Originally Posted by scottycards View Post
    MJ has no lethal dose. You might crawl under your couch and eat M&M's all day if you get too high, but it ain't gonna kill you.

  27. #67
    Quote Originally Posted by Wulf View Post


    Took the truck to the store again today and drove it around for a bit and it's running great aside from the whistle which is really loud. Interestingly it only appears above like 750rpm or so; it doesn't exist at idle.

    I'll also have to check the CAC boots, intake, degas cap too.
    Watch it turn out to be a leak in the bellows area of the NEW Y-pipe....

    Now you need to change the axle lube and transfer case. No rest for the wicked!

  28. #68
    Quote Originally Posted by Willie G View Post
    Watch it turn out to be a leak in the bellows area of the NEW Y-pipe....
    Calm down, Satan

    I really, really do hope that isn't the case. Given how many exhaust/CAC connections there are hopefully it's just that simple.

    Quote Originally Posted by Willie G View Post
    Now you need to change the axle lube and transfer case. No rest for the wicked!
    Yup, I'm curious to see what's under that rear diff cover. It should have the factory trac lock but it is either in really good shape and gripping hard enough to scrub the tires on tight turns, blow the fawk up, or a Detroit. The damn thing takes like 4 lanes across to do a u turn

  29. #69
    The Original Opie-Gone-Bad!!! Aaron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wulf View Post
    Calm down, Satan

    I really, really do hope that isn't the case. Given how many exhaust/CAC connections there are hopefully it's just that simple.



    Yup, I'm curious to see what's under that rear diff cover. It should have the factory trac lock but it is either in really good shape and gripping hard enough to scrub the tires on tight turns, blow the fawk up, or a Detroit. The damn thing takes like 4 lanes across to do a u turn
    Sounds like it needs a fluid change with proper oil and lsd additive.

  30. #70
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
    Sounds like it needs a fluid change with proper oil and lsd additive.
    I have 2 bottles of the Motorcraft friction modifier waiting to go in . I have some 75w90 synthetic but the Ford spec is 75w140 which I need to order.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

  31. #71
    I tightened up all of the exhaust connections around the turbo and have eliminated the whistle.

    Next major thing will be to poke around and figure out where it's leaking oil from. It looks like it's coming from at least one of the glow plugs but I'll probably clean it next week and put a bit of dye in to narrow it down.

    The engine itself seems to be really healthy, it starts up really quickly even in the 20 degree weather.

  32. #72
    ASCTLC's Avatar
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    Things have been going your way for a few days now.

  33. #73
    Quote Originally Posted by Wulf View Post
    I tightened up all of the exhaust connections around the turbo and have eliminated the whistle.

    Next major thing will be to poke around and figure out where it's leaking oil from. It looks like it's coming from at least one of the glow plugs but I'll probably clean it next week and put a bit of dye in to narrow it down.

    The engine itself seems to be really healthy, it starts up really quickly even in the 20 degree weather.
    That is some excellent news!

    When are you gonna take it out for a spin?

  34. #74
    Quote Originally Posted by ASCTLC View Post
    Things have been going your way for a few days now.
    Jinx

    Quote Originally Posted by Willie G View Post
    That is some excellent news!

    When are you gonna take it out for a spin?

    So, I'm still having the problem in the OP at random. Monday the truck never skipped a beat and hauled ass. I did a bunch of rolling 5 to 50-60mph pulls and it was quick (fastest vehicle I own for sure hahaha).

    Tonight it wouldn't rev above 2500 RPM while accelerating. When it hits 2500rpm and falls on its face I can let off the throttle a bit and it will shift into the next gear and pull hard til 2500 again.

    I have been told it could be an injector(s) failed, stiction, bad ICP sensor, clogged cat...so I guess I have a few more things to check

    I might take it in to have them run a contribution/injector test to cross that one off the list

  35. #75
    My truck also has the unnecessary EGR throttle plate so it is possible it could be getting stuck and preventing enough air from entering the intake

    https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...r-2500rpm.html

  36. #76
    Quote Originally Posted by Wulf View Post
    My truck also has the unnecessary EGR throttle plate so it is possible it could be getting stuck and preventing enough air from entering the intake

    https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...r-2500rpm.html
    Interesting. Mine doesn't have that, so I had no idea.

    M-Chan is a smart guy and well respected so his diagnosis may apply to you.

  37. #77
    Quote Originally Posted by Willie G View Post
    Interesting. Mine doesn't have that, so I had no idea.

    M-Chan is a smart guy and well respected so his diagnosis may apply to you.
    Yeah, it's interesting to learn about the changes that they went through over the years..


    Another possible issue would be the HPOP but I'm not certain about that one since OTOH it was still fueling and sending raw diesel out the exhaust when it cuts out. I can only speculate so much without digging into things further

  38. #78
    I've also been told the exhaust backpressure sensor going bad could cause the issue I'm having. I cleaned the sensor with sensor safe cleaner and tube with carb cleaner and bailing wire but I may have to log some sensor readings and try to figure out if it's out of line.

    The EBP sensor being bad kind of makes sense since the truck was running great with a leaky exhaust connection; now that the connection is tight it's possible it's reading too high

  39. #79

  40. #80
    Quote Originally Posted by Willie G View Post
    Seems tedious above all else, hopefully it doesn't come to that


    I replaced the VGT pigtail because the wires were shorting out near the connector. I also pulled the intake throttle plate because it could have been sticking.

    I drove the truck to work today and all seems well, I guess we'll find out if it really was the throttle plate.

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