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  1. #1
    lemon2476's Avatar
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    Cj-7 Brake Booster

    I have an 84 CJ-7 with a stock master cylinder and Disc brakes all around.
    I'm only running 33s but I need more stopping power.
    I've been looking into a Brake Booster that I can put on myself without spending 500 dollars. I've found this A1 Cardone booster. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk.../A1509373.html
    This version is quite a bit cheaper. I was wondering if anyone has tried the A1 booster before?
    If so, does it work well? Is there any extra parts that are needed?
    Thank you for your help.
    Josh

  2. #2

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    what is the issue specifically? is the pedal hard to push? to much pedal travel? what master are you running and what axles/calipers?

    Usually 1/2t axles with disc brakes would be plenty for 33s.
    1994 Toyota FZJ80 - elocked, 3in OME lift, 315/75-16 KM2s, Warn 8274.

  3. #3
    meatballs's Avatar
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    78 corvette master cylinder. That should do the trick. No mods needs

  4. #4

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    If you don't already have power brakes, that booster will require a bracket that mounts between the booster and firewall. It's very hard to find stock CJ power booster brackets also.

    There's a lot of info on the web for swapping a YJ booster into a CJ.

    x2 on the questions cmd11 asked though. No sense jumping to a different booster if the master could be the problem.

  5. #5
    I've been running the Vanco vacuum set up in my CJ-7 on 35's and it stops really well. It's basically a dual diaphragm booster and a Corvette master cylinder. And, it wasn't $500, well, almost.....$425. You might be able to piece it together for less.
    http://www.vancopbs.com/category_s/90.htm
    I started with nothing, and I've got most of it left.

  6. #6
    I put a YJ brake on my CJ5 with 33s. I could lock up the tires if I wanted to. Spent $50 on the YJ booster and a direct bolt in. Just have to extend the lever to the brake pedal a little.

  7. #7
    On my old YJ I used a kit from MasterPower brakes that combined a dual diaphragm booster with a Corvette M/C. Worked great with 35s & 36" IROKs. Very complete kit, brackets, fittings, etc. Plug & play. Unfortunately, probably $500 by now.

  8. #8
    On my CJ, I am running a combo booster and m/c from a '79 Corvette. The booster rod has to be shortened. This along with the factory CJ booster bracket mod where you raise the bracket up 3/4 of an inch and the pedal pushrod down 3/4 of an inch (all by re drilling the bracket holes) works great and is inexpensive. Last time I bought the booster and m/c combo from Autozone it was around 150 dollars. This was about 5 years ago. I originally got the idea from 4 wheel drive and sport utility magazine from the late 90's.
    My name is Daniel. I pretty much do what I want.

  9. #9
    lemon2476's Avatar
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    Thanks for all of your help!
    I'm running a Dana 30 front and Dana 44 rear. The issue is I have to double pump at any stop. Sitting on an obstacle I have to keep my leg cranked to stay still.

    Grakee 99: For the YJ booster to work do I need a the power booster bracket?

    SamfromCO: With the Vanco setup did you have to modify anything or get additional parts?

    Thanks

  10. #10

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    Sounds like you have a bad master cylinder if you have to pump it up. With discs on all four corners the Corvette master is a good suggestion. I have one with manual brakes and have no problems stopping with 37s and discs on all four corners.

    The YJ booster does not require the bracket. Like I said, there's lotsa info on this swap on the web.

    No booster is going to increase the capacity of your master cylinder.

  11. #11

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    yep - you need more volume from the master to fill the calipers so a corvette master would be a good match. also eliminate the stock disc/drum prop valve and either leave it out or replace it with a disc/disc prop valve. I source a lot of my parts from master power brakes and inline tube - both offer a slew of bendix parts. i was running 1 ton axles with a 1 ton master and a MPB dual diaphragm master and could lock up the 42s at will.

    it's all about matching the volumn to master is going to deliver to get a good pedal height and then making sure you have the boost (either from a booster or by lever ratio) to operate the master. plus, you need a power bleeder to eliminate any air from the lines and also check that when you have your front wheels turned all the way against the locks, that the calipers are not hitting the shocks and forcing them to push the pistons in. this will cause that issue with the pedal going to the floor at very inopportune times on the trail.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by lemon2476 View Post
    SamfromCO: With the Vanco setup did you have to modify anything or get additional parts?
    Nope. Everything was included. The piece that attaches to the brake pedal had to be adjusted to set the pedal height and the brake lines had to be switched (the line on the front of the old m/c went to the back of the new m/c and vice versa).

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