View Poll Results: IDEAL TIRE SIZE...

Voters
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  • 33"

    14 7.82%
  • 35"

    41 22.91%
  • 36"

    4 2.23%
  • 37"

    47 26.26%
  • 38"

    5 2.79%
  • 39"

    9 5.03%
  • 40"

    43 24.02%
  • 42"

    12 6.70%
  • 44"

    3 1.68%
  • >44"

    1 0.56%
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  1. #1

    Question Ideal Tire Size...

    I was watching some old vids tonight of previous TTC competitions & just some general wheeling from around the country, and I began thinking.....

    I've had the discussion with my friends about ideal tire size and what's "too big". I've never been a fan of gi-normous tires, because I rather enjoy being able to negotiate an obstacle with skill & problem solving. But I wanted to see what the rest of the board considered an "ideal" tire size?

    Whether you are currently running your ideal size, or you're still building your rig & will eventually reach that perfect size, I wanna know...

    What size is perfect for you? (I DON'T CARE ABOUT YOUR MOTOR, YOUR BUDGET, ETC. I GUESS AM MORE CURIOUS AS TO WHAT SIZE FITS YOUR WHEELING STYLE & WHY.)

    I am currently running 37's, however my rig is still under the knife! But I plan on stopping at 39's.
    '90 YJ with some cool schtuff..... yah, it wheels!

  2. #2
    Austin007's Avatar
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    My Jeep is under the knife as well. I am going from 36's to 40's. I love how the look and function of all of the new "low rider" rigs. With the 36's I hit my axles all the time. Yes I do think that 40's are going to take some of the work out of wheeling but I'm kind of going another route with my Jeep.

  3. #3
    Lilly Bear ColoradoXJ's Avatar
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    My XJ will be stopping at 35's. I'm building it for longer expedition/camping type wheeling trips, not for extreme rock-crawling. Although i'd like it to be able to do some harder stuff.
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  4. #4
    Did it for the LULz Jeffro600's Avatar
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    There is no "ideal" tire size...

    Driver skill, rig capabilities\setup, type of rig, how streetable you want it and about a billion other factors come into play...
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  5. #5

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    I like tires in the 40-42inch range. Seems to work the best for me.
    Last edited by cmd11; February 9th, 2010 at 07:58 AM.
    1994 Toyota FZJ80 - elocked, 3in OME lift, 315/75-16 KM2s, Warn 8274.

  6. #6
    Wally's Avatar
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    That's a loaded question, in my opinion/experience it really comes down to what axles you have, how well built they are and how you drive. There's people out there that could make 40" MT/R's or Iroks live under a built dana 30 with a 4cyl, yet i know people that could blow up that dana 30 with 33's and a 4cyl. I think the general rule of thumb for stock axles is something like this:

    Fronts
    Dana 30 - 33" tires
    Dana 44 - 35" tires
    Toyota 8" - 36" tires
    Dana 60 - 40" tires


    Rears
    Dana 35 - 31" tires
    AMC 20 - 33" tires
    8.25 - 33" tires
    dana 44 - 35" tires
    Toyota 8" - 36" tires
    Ford 8.8 - 37" tires
    Ford 9" - 37" tires
    Dana 60 (30 spline) - 37" tires
    14 bolt - 42" tires

    Now adding alloy shafts and bigger joints, generally speaking i would say you could jump up another 2"-4" in tire size depending on the axle, obviously the smaller axles you go up to just an few inches where the larger axles you can comfortably go up 3"-4" in most cases. It all comes down to ground clearance. I remember a few years back at EJS, we had an xj with 33's and a dana 30/35 combo, an xj with a 44/9" on 35's and my yj on 60's with 37's and the xj on 33's had the most ground clearance of the group under the axle.

  7. #7
    tjjared413's Avatar
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    i started with 35" but that was when my rig was dd/weekend rig i was able to do a lot of trails but there was so many trials i could never do so then i step up to 37" and i have been on them for about 1 yr now and its better but was not worth the jump from 35" i still hit the diffs just as much and there is alots of holes that eat up my 37" . i think 39" to 40" is just right for me but i have about one more summer before i can get them need a new tow first rig
    rig- 04 TJ -it has round tires and tow rig- 04 chevy d-max
    game on western slope! game on.........

  8. #8
    I believe it would be a range of 37-40" tires for our area and my type of wheeling. I have rigs with 37's that will go almost every place rigs with 40's go. 40's make things seem different but not the deciding factor to making an obstical.

  9. #9
    Not lost CannonBall's Avatar
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    I have 29's on my XJ, with 2 lockers and body protection it's actually really fun and surpisingly capable. Certainly the small tires make some of the "harder" trails a little more stressful, but it's also nice to have just about all stock parts for my jeep. My old jeep had 37's on it by the time I got rid of it and I was getting a little bored with how mindless some trails had become. Honestly, I think 33's would be great for daily driving and weekend wheeling.
    edit: I do remember back when I first got into wheeling (I'm not that old) so like 99-00, someone told me "if you can't drive it with 35's, it shouldn't be driven." Not really a great rule but I've sort of always had that in the back of my mind. This guy dropped a lot of weird phrases, my fav is "limited slip is like sex with a condom, it just doesn't work"
    Last edited by CannonBall; February 9th, 2010 at 09:08 AM.
    2k XJ

  10. #10
    35's to 40's- depends on if your drive it to/from trail of trailer the thing. 35's have the best road manners and real good off road ability and come in many rim sizes and are relatively easy on drive train. 37's start to lose that on road performance, add more weight and are harder to balance, drive-train issue start to be an issue and rim sizes are only 17 inch and up (15 inch rim size are being faded out, anyone want to buy a nice set of 15 inch walkers ).
    40's are cool looking, getting harder on drive-train and takes a ton of power from ya, not real road worthy and 17 and over rim size. I think the 35 to 37 is perfect for most wheelers that like to drive their vehicles to/from trail, trailer queens a 40-42 tire would rock.
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  11. #11
    I've found 32's to be my ideal tire size for the exploring I like to do.
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  12. #12
    I roll the 47's on 60/14 bolt. I have grown from 31, 33,35,37,42"s on my rig and each time I upgrade the truck the obstacles I find match the tires. 35s on 21 road was fun. 47's is now a walk in the park for the lines I did 7 years ago, but now I find myself trying lines that were never even considered. Bigger tires don't necessarly mean less skill. Now I have to drive to distant locations to make the 47s a challenge. 40" Tires would be my ultimate Colorado/moab tire.
    Holding firm with Cash...Waiting for next build to come to me.......

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffro600 View Post
    There is no "ideal" tire size...

    Driver skill, rig capabilities\setup, type of rig, how streetable you want it and about a billion other factors come into play...
    I agree, but look at my question again. These are all VERY important factors when buying/building a rig, but I wanted to see how the board felt about what was an ideal tire size FOR THEM & the trails/conditions THEY SEE.

    I realize this issue is like asking how many licks to the center of a tootsie pop, but all that other crap aside (axles, motors, suspension, the list goes on), I am simply curious about peoples opinions.

  14. #14

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    In colorado, I would say 37's, because there aren't that many super hard trails here. If you lived in Arizona, it would probably be 40's.

    Quote Originally Posted by dcastell View Post
    Bigger tires don't necessarly mean less skill.
    I don't think the OP meant that, I think more along the lines of

    Quote Originally Posted by dcastell View Post
    Now I have to drive to distant locations to make the 47s a challenge.
    I know MANY people who have built up to 38+" tires and hardly 'wheel any more. The "regular" scenic Colorado trails aren't a challenge, and the time to drive to the hard trails is just too much. Several of them have re-built their rigs to 33"ish tires to get some of the challenge back.

    BTW, this is one of the things I like most about selectable lockers - on an easier trail, you can leave it open/open and still have a challenge picking lines etc., but still have the capability to run super hard trails/obstacles too.
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  15. #15
    hunter's Avatar
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    I have always felt that for smaller vehicles ie Jeeps, FJ40's and such that 35's are ideal not to big that it can not be driven daily but a very capable vehicle.

    For full size ie F250's, K30's and such at least 40's need them to compensate for the long wheel base and extra wieght.

    I prefer 44's on my truck mounted on a 12" wide wheel.


    Just my opinion I may be wrong.
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  16. #16
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    40's are the new 35.

  17. #17

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    The larger the tires the majority goes to, the larger the tires that will be required to wheel in Colorado

  18. #18
    HardBdyTJ's Avatar
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    For wheel'n Carnage, Billings Canyon, Montrose, Penrose, BFE or Pritchett in Moab, I find the 39" Red Label Krawler entirely satisfactory. I can still find challenge, still have fun getting after it, and still stay on the trail to do these things.
    HardBdyTJ<br /><br />"Never, never, never give up."<br />- Winston Churchill

  19. #19
    37's would work the best for Street and off-road. IMO

    I have had 35's that worked very well but 37's would have worked better. I have a 1ton build going and I am going to 40" just beacuse I can and they were the right price.

  20. #20
    TJ Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HardBdyTJ View Post
    For wheel'n Carnage, Billings Canyon, Montrose, Penrose, BFE or Pritchett in Moab, I find the 39" Red Label Krawler entirely satisfactory. I can still find challenge, still have fun getting after it, and still stay on the trail to do these things.
    I did Pritchett last year on 35's It was challenging to say least it was a blast. I ended up breaking a u-joint in the front axel I am glad I had the bright idea to have spair junk yard axels with me at the time so I just removed the broken one and slaped the replacement in and we were off again. I am going to do it again this easter when I am back in Moab. Carnage, Billings, Montrose, Perose trails are all on my Radar and I would like to do them this year. I am doing the Atlas 4 speed t-case next month so I will have more control. What I am driving at (because of my Dana 30 up front and the Dana 44 in the back I haven't bought bigger tires than the 35's to help the Axels survive. I will eventually put Spider 9's or 60's under it but the cost of the Atlas is going to take a while to recover from. Can I do the trails you mentioned with 35's or do I need to wait until my jeep grows up a little with 37-40's to do them? I am not scared of putting beauty marks on the jeep that is what the Armor is for.
    Last edited by TJ Rider; February 9th, 2010 at 06:08 PM.

  21. #21
    if I had 47's on my teeny tiny cj5 the front and rear tires would be rubbing each other.
    It is not the end. It is not the beginning of the end. It is the end of the beginning.

  22. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by TJ Rider View Post
    Can I do the trails you mentioned with 35's or do I need to wait until my jeep grows up a little with 37-40's to do them?
    I ran several of those trails with 35's & a Dana 30, it can be done.

  23. #23
    Did it for the LULz Jeffro600's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crawlinyj View Post
    I ran several of those trails with 35's & a Dana 30, it can be done.
    Most trails can be done with 35's...its pretty rare to see something that can be done on 40 inch tires that cant on 35's. You might drag diffs or other things more often but given an equally capable rig and a driver who knows what hes doing, tire size(within reason) is rarely the limiting factor.
    Last edited by Jeffro600; February 9th, 2010 at 08:24 PM.

  24. #24
    I don't care what the perfect tire size is.I just like the looks of a 42" TSL.
    CJ/buggy,FI406,465,205,D60,14boltFF on beadlocked 39.50 swampers.See build.
    http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=134201
    '70Jeepster, 225,T-14,D20,10bolt,12bolt on 34/9.50/15 Swampers
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  25. #25
    Hayes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wally View Post
    That's a loaded question, in my opinion/experience it really comes down to what axles you have, how well built they are and how you drive. There's people out there that could make 40" MT/R's or Iroks live under a built dana 30 with a 4cyl, yet i know people that could blow up that dana 30 with 33's and a 4cyl. I think the general rule of thumb for stock axles is something like this:

    Fronts
    Dana 30 - 33" tires
    Dana 44 - 35" tires
    Toyota 8" - 36" tires
    Dana 60 - 40" tires


    Rears
    Dana 35 - 31" tires
    AMC 20 - 33" tires
    8.25 - 33" tires
    dana 44 - 35" tires
    Toyota 8" - 36" tires
    Ford 8.8 - 37" tires
    Ford 9" - 37" tires
    Dana 60 (30 spline) - 37" tires
    14 bolt - 42" tires

    Now adding alloy shafts and bigger joints, generally speaking i would say you could jump up another 2"-4" in tire size depending on the axle, obviously the smaller axles you go up to just an few inches where the larger axles you can comfortably go up 3"-4" in most cases. It all comes down to ground clearance. I remember a few years back at EJS, we had an xj with 33's and a dana 30/35 combo, an xj with a 44/9" on 35's and my yj on 60's with 37's and the xj on 33's had the most ground clearance of the group under the axle.

    He asked about tire size, not supporting modifications. I base my mods on what tire size I plan on running in the future. I built my 4runner in phase 1 with 33's, but over geared to 5.71 because I planned on stepping up to 35's later on. For what I do, I think 33's are ideal.
    “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms… disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes… Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants…” — Thomas Jefferson in “Commonplace Book,” 1774-1776

  26. #26
    32"ers work good on my towrig.

  27. #27
    HardBdyTJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJ Rider View Post
    I did Pritchett last year on 35's It was challenging to say least it was a blast. I ended up breaking a u-joint in the front axel I am glad I had the bright idea to have spair junk yard axels with me at the time so I just removed the broken one and slaped the replacement in and we were off again. I am going to do it again this easter when I am back in Moab. Carnage, Billings, Montrose, Perose trails are all on my Radar and I would like to do them this year. I am doing the Atlas 4 speed t-case next month so I will have more control. What I am driving at (because of my Dana 30 up front and the Dana 44 in the back I haven't bought bigger tires than the 35's to help the Axels survive. I will eventually put Spider 9's or 60's under it but the cost of the Atlas is going to take a while to recover from. Can I do the trails you mentioned with 35's or do I need to wait until my jeep grows up a little with 37-40's to do them? I am not scared of putting beauty marks on the jeep that is what the Armor is for.
    I ran Indy (all of it) on 35's, I ran Carnage Canyon on 35's, but it took it's toll. You do have to watch it carefully on the D30/44 setup and 35's. Puting your steering wheel hard over, either way, puts your u-joints at extreme torque compared to less of a turn. The thing is, you need that kind of turning at times on those trails, so I was always more tense on 35's and lighter duty axles.

    Just bring spares and please, let me go ahead of you.

  28. #28

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    I think under axle clearence is the real decider here. A Toyota 8" rear w/ 37's will give you more clearance under the axle then a D60/14bolt. Approach angle Is definately better with a larger tire. Im pretty much stuck with 37's with my fully built yoter axles for reliability but 40" Tires would be alot better since the front of my rig to the center of the hubs is 20" 4d's would give me the best approach angle possible, but 8" toyota WONT last w/ 4d's :|
    One flopped yota

  29. #29
    77K5's Avatar
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    And 'Yota axles with 37's have more clearance than a 60/14 bolt with 42's?

    I've run 37's and 42's on my one tons, the added tire height adds WAY more for making it over things than it does for clearance.

    I understand the concept of "bigger tire require less skill" etc but there can't be much argument that if you have the setup to keep everything alive, bigger tires are going to make the rig more capable in most situations. By the same right, bigger tires means you need to drive further to find a challenge, tow rigs, etc.

    There are exceptions, I could keep 44's alive but don't want them because they're so wide, for example.

    And of course bigger generally means heavier which is, of course, a hindrance.

    But, seriously, bigger tires make the rocks seem smaller
    77K5 Truggy with some stuff...

  30. #30

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    I was suggesting that a Toyota Axle with 37's will probably have more clearence then a D60/14B w/ the same size tire.

  31. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by dezrik View Post
    but 8" toyota WONT last w/ 4d's :|
    Mine has for 2 seasons now (knocking on wooden desk as we speak)
    1984 Toyota 4Runner

    [QUOTE=CGuava]I might be brown, but my neck is red on the inside![/QUOTE]

  32. #32
    fattymojo1's Avatar
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    My favorite tire size is.....whatever i find a good deal on

    Right now its 39.5
    Not too long ago it was 42"
    Before that it was 37"

    I saw no difference performance wise between the 42" and 39.5".

    I like 39.5-40 range the best i think.
    "scars are tattoos with better stories, chicks dig body damage"

  33. #33
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    I don't believe the answer is universal. I had a great time the last twenty five years wheel'n from 28" to 46" rubber. It is all relative to what entertains you and your purpose in off road recreation. I did however vote 40". Of the many buggies, Jeeps and trucks that I've piloted, with this size I have been able to surmount the craziest trails out there and still keep it fun for the less technical ones.

  34. #34
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    37"-40" keeps me happy with multi season CO wheelin.
    '94 YJ- 5.3, 4L60E, NP241, D60, 14B, 107", 42"s
    '09 SIERRA- LMM, MiniMaxx, FloPro 4", DPF & EGR delete, BanksRamAir, 3" lift w/ 33"s

  35. #35
    I voted 40"s 'cause that's what I'd build for if I was doing a scratch built junkyard parts sourced rig. Starting with a used TJ with D44/HP30 under it I'm running 35" Maxxis Creepy Crawlers and am at the limits of what can be run with any sort of reliability, in fact it's in the shop now getting new ring gears that actually have teeth on them

    Last year I did Pritchett x2, Behind the Rocks, Holy Cross, several weekends on easier Moab trails, 12+ trips to Chokecherry etc. IMO 35"s are the sweet spot for me just 'cause the cost to go bigger on the rig I have now is prohibitive. I will say that I almost never go to my local trails in the San Juans, kind of boring even now.
    Dave Shannon Durango, CO
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    Gone but not forgotten, '56 CJ, '61 Wagon, '51 PU, '07 JK

  36. #36
    I've been running 35's on my rig for several seasons now and I am pretty happy with them. I stretched the wheel base some so after the v-8 goes in I'll have the power to turn 37's on the road. All that having been said 37's are the limit for me. I like her road manners and I have been able to go anywhere I have wanted to wheel on 35's so far. OCG, Holy Cross, Left Hand Carnage, Gold Bar Rim, Golden Spike, Poison Spider, Hell's Revenge, 7 mile Rim, the "easy" side of the Independence trail system, and many others. I guess it boils down to this: Are you there to wheel and have a good time in your trail rig or are you building a rig that you can compete in resulting in long drives to find a challenge.
    90' YJ TNT coil conversion, stretched, dana 44's, 35's

  37. #37
    I like 37s. I went the 31-35-37 route. I like axles big enough to stay in one piece, and tires big enough to keep them from hitting everything.

    Sometimes I think a wrangler on 33s would be perfect, but there's a lot of fun out there for the bigger tires to be had.

  38. #38
    WhyJay's Avatar
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    39's 'cause that's what I run but pretty much up to the individual, how the rig is set up and what you hope to accomplish
    59V-8YJ

  39. #39
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    Size does matter

    I believe a person should set a tire size goal when starting a build project whether it be for rock crawling or trail riding and build to that goal.

    You buy a rig for a purpose. You come up with a realistic budget. 32" tires cost one price but the components required to allow it to run those tires will increase the cost and complexity of the build. Decide instead to go to 40s and the cost increases exponentially along with component complexity.

    I chose to build mine to use 32" tires. I achieved that goal without having to do hi steer, spring over, and without body lift or body modifications. My stock axles can relatively easily handle this size tire and provides me with some strength reserves. I chose not to spend the money it would take to run 35-37" tires. That would require swapping in larger stronger axles and lots more lift and body modification. I can consider going up to 34" tires with just axle upgrades in the stock housings but if I did the axles and stay with the 32s then I have even more strength reserve. A 32" tire gives me the same diff clearance as a rig with bigger tires but bigger diff housings. My dreams are limited by my wallet.

    I understand the limits I have placed on my rig and the limits on the trails I "should" attempt. There are a lot of trails all across the state I can tackle but I should avoid the 8s and up. I want to get back out, not just in to get my picture taken on some rock obstacle. It is difficult to resist the lure of chasing the big stuff. Everybody manages to break their stuff no matter how well it's built, how strong the axles are or how big or small the tires are.

    After a few years getting my skills honed learning the abilities of this rig and covering plenty of trails I may get to the point where I want to step up, but that is a ways off and lots of trails to experience before that. The loose nut behind the wheel is a major factor.

    Pick you desired tire size and build the rig to that choice. I find the lure very difficult to resist but limited budget helps me keep it realistic.

    So, 32" is my choice, (for today). It's all just a grand experiment.
    (I had to vote for 33 since 32 was not an option.)
    1987 Suzuki Samurai with some stuff.

  40. #40

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    I agree. Size does matter. the entire point of running a larger tire is for the great contact patch afforded when aired down. No real gain in ground clearance (due to upgraded axles as a result of the increased traction), but IMHO, size can make the difference given all other factors are equal.

    edit: going from 39in iroks to 42in iroks made a very significant difference in traction for me. yes, most trails are 'easy', but it also opens up the opportunity to run much more challenging lines and besides, I can run the scenic stuff just fine with 42s. I just have to tow to get there
    Last edited by cmd11; February 11th, 2010 at 08:20 AM.

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