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Thread: My Toyota Build

  1. #1

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    My Toyota Build

    First Ill bring you up to current!
    When i bought it looked like this, Engine had at least 200k, Smoked alot, had the original 20r,L43, 4.37 third's. rolling 33's (Fit with no lift or body lift)





    I purchased a All pro lift and installed it thinking I was going to purchase bigger tires soon. took me almost a year to add big meats





    With the lift I needed to Upgrade my Shocks,Steering. Its very uncomfortable driving around with the stock toothpick steering setup. Also installed a Fresh 22R w/ Carb. Few Pictures of me wiring the beast, only needed 8 wires to run the carb 22r. 4 being Alternator wires and 2 for the Distributer and 2 for Fuel cutoff, and misc wires for gauges. I Used the 20R Distributer and Coil mainly because I didn't have to modify my original coil, and ignitor. Easy swap I had to modify the exhaust and Change the motor mounts to 20r mounts, it bolted right up, I also decided to Install a L52 Transmission they are stouter then the L43 and it gave me another gear. Look at those amazing welds








    As its Sits Today

    Only added 38.5x15x15 Ground hawgs used for $200. Needed some rubber for winter my Hankook 33's were bald. siping is in order, and i know these tires are going to suck in the snow.





    Things I have planned:
    Calling Gotpropane and Getting a Propane/Turbo kit from Cary by the end of the month.
    Install Square driveshaft up front, Weld up the new Spring hanger up front to give me a better front pinion angle (Not using front driveshaft right now)
    Order a Dual case adapter.
    Repair Any rust on the body, purchasing new Fenders, Extend my toyota Cab Picture below.
    Finding a W56 Transmission or a R151 Turbo tranny (yeah right)
    Purchase Lockers (ARB Hopefully), Get Longs (May have a good deal on an complete axle from AJ Right?)
    Regear to 5.29's.
    Install Turbo flywheel, clutch The flywheel is heavier and hopefully will help with stall.



    Looking at doing something like this but use an ext cab window in that Area. I have all the metal to do it Just haven't sat my ass down and done it. Tell me what ya think.

    I will update as soon as Updates are done.
    One flopped willys

  2. #2
    MDert's Avatar
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    Nice work. I love those trucks, I had an 83 like that. I would def leave the bed and body in contact. They just look better that way.
    '94 YJ- 5.3, 4L60E, 241, 60, 14, 107", 42"s
    '09 LMM- H&S, deleted, red in color & tows shit

  3. #3

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    Cool! Another 1st gen. We'll have to go wheelin when you get it done.

    I wish I had an extra cab just to have room for stuff.
    2006 Porsche Cayenne Turbo S
    520 Hp of badness
    Taking a break from slow...

  4. #4
    89minitruck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dezrik View Post

    Purchase Lockers (ARB Hopefully), Get Longs (May have a good deal on an complete axle from AJ Right?)

    Let me fix that for you... I BOUGHT a complete front axle from AJ. ARB with Super Bad Azz 30 spline Longfields, Marlin High Steer Arms, upgraded steering studs, and lots of other goodies. Just waiting to take delivery...

    And you don't want 5.29s, 4.88s are perfect.
    89 Yota, 4.3 V6, Marlin 4.7+Doubler, 40s on Double Beadlocks, 60 and 14 bolt axles...

  5. #5
    Did it for the LULz Jeffro600's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89minitruck View Post
    -
    And you don't want 5.29s, 4.88s are perfect.
    For a streetable rig with a 22r running 38's?? Hes gonna want at least 5.29's! My 22r is a DOG with 35's and 5.29's...5th gear its useless unless its perfectly flat or going down a hill.
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  6. #6

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    DAMN you , I was saving up for his axle!!, Oh well I have enough saved up to Buy my ARB and Longs

  7. #7
    sonofmayhem's Avatar
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    Good luck. Looks like it is taking a good direction.

    My 3.0 is ok with 5.13s on 37s.
    2003 Toyota Super Taco

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  8. #8
    yota79crawler's Avatar
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    no e-locker? i just picked one up for $150
    whats the propane/turbo setup gonna cost? id go with a 3rz instead.

    ohh and i run 4.88's with 37 mtr behind my 3rz, but it has the supra lsd
    94 fj80
    F-Toy F002
    Karnage Fab

  9. #9

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    I was checking out a 3RZ Swap, but everytime i find one its to expensive or something is wrong with it. Turbo/Propane setup is $1200 to my door. Im going this route mainly because i get a huge discount on Propane fuel, ($1.63 per gallon) on a 10 gallon tank i should be able to run around town for a month before fill ups. E-Locker for $150 Ill take TWO!!!!

  10. #10
    Did it for the LULz Jeffro600's Avatar
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    Gotta wonder...how well is the propane going to work in the winter(freezing lines and tanks)?? I know my BBQ dont like working very well when it gets below freezing...

  11. #11

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    we have a propane forklift at work and it starts up fine, we do keep it plugged in though, I Just purchased a freeze plug style block heater, We will see, if I Don't like the setup I can always sell it to some guy on the west coast

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by dezrik View Post
    on a 10 gallon tank i should be able to run around town for a month before fill ups.
    Unless you're only gonna drive it a few miles a day, You'll be filling up more often. I've ran propane for the last four years, and the best I get is about 6 hours of run time on an eight gallon tank. (this is off road only)I never go anywhere without two full tanks.
    Your rig's looking good so far. You'll love the 'pane.
    If it doesn't want to start in the cold after the propane install, you can always hook up a "choke" to the regulator.
    I can find you a pic if your interested.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by redneck_toy View Post
    Unless you're only gonna drive it a few miles a day, You'll be filling up more often. I've ran propane for the last four years, and the best I get is about 6 hours of run time on an eight gallon tank. (this is off road only)I never go anywhere without two full tanks.
    Your rig's looking good so far. You'll love the 'pane.
    If it doesn't want to start in the cold after the propane install, you can always hook up a "choke" to the regulator.
    I can find you a pic if your interested.
    I drive only 2.0mi to work and back, it only takes me about 10 minutes to get to work. I can't wait. I installed a block heater to help with the cold starting. Our propane forklift started in -40f two years ago. Im sure it will be fine.

    I would love a pic, are you running a turbo setup too???
    Last edited by dezrik; October 6th, 2009 at 02:35 PM.

  14. #14
    noahfecks's Avatar
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    I still have a complete front axle with Longs, 5.29's, and an ARB.

    Build is looking good. I always liked the idea of an extended cab 1st gen. Those fenders are kick arse, you should paint the rest to match.
    " A mans rights rest in three boxes; the ballot box, the jury box, and the cartridge box" Fredrick Douglass
    "The nationalist not only does not disapprove of atrocities committed by his own side, but he has a remarkable capacity for not even hearing about them" George Orwell

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by noahfecks View Post
    I still have a complete front axle with Longs, 5.29's, and an ARB.

    Build is looking good. I always liked the idea of an extended cab 1st gen. Those fenders are kick arse, you should paint the rest to match.
    The truck in that picture i stole off someone elses build thread off marlin crawler Pm me A price on that axle

  16. #16

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    Finally bought the Front Hanger along with about $200 bucks worth of stuff including Shock hoops for 14" Shocks, Rear spring hanger Shackle frame mounts, Ubolt flipkits and another HySteer power steering box mount, Im going to ditch my current frame for another, virgin frame.

    Sky Manufacturing 2" Drop Spring hanger $153 to my Door.



    As soon as my other brackets come in I Will post up my Frame Build Portion

  17. #17
    AddictedOffroad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dezrik View Post
    Finally bought the Front Hanger along with about $200 bucks worth of stuff including Shock hoops for 14" Shocks, Rear spring hanger Shackle frame mounts, Ubolt flipkits and another HySteer power steering box mount, Im going to ditch my current frame for another, virgin frame.

    Sky Manufacturing 2" Drop Spring hanger $153 to my Door.



    As soon as my other brackets come in I Will post up my Frame Build Portion
    Make sure to box the lower part of that crossmember in. I have seen several bent and folded in when hit by a rock.
    Scotty
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  18. #18

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    Planning on doing that, I may mount some clevises to the bottom once i box it in.

  19. #19
    AddictedOffroad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dezrik View Post
    Planning on doing that, I may mount some clevises to the bottom once i box it in.
    I wouldn't. Its only tied into .90 wall material there. Use a winch mount, or receiver someone else.

  20. #20

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    Last time I ordered parts from Davez Offroad Perfomance, I ordered Shock Hoops, They are in the picture Above, they came with welding required, I had to weld the 1/4 bar the Shock mount tabs on, They are alright but they don't suck the shock in really close to the frame like I Would like it so I sprung for a set from TrailGear, they are very nice I think they will do a good job keeping the shock out of the tire, and they came with re-enforcement bars. Ordered up a Standard IFS Box mount bracket and rear leaf spring mounts. Only thing I hate about trail-gear is everything i buy from them comes with a crap load of oil all over everything. Hopefully I will have the frame in the garage to start welding/cutting by Wednesday. I may ditch my all-pro springs in the front and build a custom pack out of the Old rear springs. on to the pictures... we like pictures



  21. #21
    AddictedOffroad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dezrik View Post
    Last time I ordered parts from Davez Offroad Perfomance, I ordered Shock Hoops, They are in the picture Above, they came with welding required, I had to weld the 1/4 bar the Shock mount tabs on, They are alright but they don't suck the shock in really close to the frame like I Would like it so I sprung for a set from TrailGear, they are very nice I think they will do a good job keeping the shock out of the tire, and they came with re-enforcement bars. Ordered up a Standard IFS Box mount bracket and rear leaf spring mounts. Only thing I hate about trail-gear is everything i buy from them comes with a crap load of oil all over everything. Hopefully I will have the frame in the garage to start welding/cutting by Wednesday. I may ditch my all-pro springs in the front and build a custom pack out of the Old rear springs. on to the pictures... we like pictures


    Just use some brake cleaner on the parts and it will pull all of the oil off.

  22. #22

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    Updates:

    Painted the frame, not because it was in horrible shape, I Wire brushed the heck out of it and used the flap disk and checked for cracks along the frame, then took it to have the frame checked for straightness (Didn't want to weld all my new parts on a bent frame like a previously did), Then painted with some Black enamel paint. Probably won't do a whole lot but it looks decent and may keep the frame from rusting away for a couple of 10 years or so. I also cut the stock front spring hanger off with a 4 1/2 cut off disc, PITA but i got it done, Mocked up the front spring hanger but didn't weld it, I'm still undecided between my All-Pro front springs or Rears Up front (80 rear spring pack, two leafs from All-Pro springs, 3.5" Lift this way. It also moves the axle forward 2" From what Im told.) Pictures of the frame.





    On the Agenda for the rest of this month:

    Bring AJ's front axle to its new home Mine install leafs/ubolts and roll it under the frame to get a better idea on how its going to sit (Shackle angle, Pinion angle etc) Weld the front crossmember up. (2In drop Sky-Manufacturing hanger, I chose this one to help my pinion angle, I hope this works out, my pinion angle currently is steep as fawk).

    Find a W56 transmission in decent shape, and Hopefully purchase a Dual case adapter (will help my steep driveshaft angle of course, and Dual cases are ).

    Get driveshafts built, im cheap so Square driveshaft up front and probably going to go with Davezperformanceoffroad for the rear driveshaft, unless i find a cheaper place to make me a driveshaft for under $300.

    Cut out the floorboard and weld up some new flooring, my floors are rusted through and very thin, I installed a L52 and had to cut the tunnel up a bit so i have a gaping hole there too, not to swell in the middle of winter, although the stock heater will fry you as you drive.

    Sand and prep the body for paint, Hopefully I will have this done for me locally, I'm not to good at body work, although I can weld up a body panel pretty good with all the practice I had on my old cj2a.

    Last but not least, get this bitch to grand junction for a trip down 21rd before I withdraws from being on the trail, Been almost a year since I did any real wheeling in the yota. (I have to drive my wifes awful 97 tj through the light stuff, you've seen the pictures)

  23. #23
    64jeep's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffro600 View Post
    For a streetable rig with a 22r running 38's?? Hes gonna want at least 5.29's! My 22r is a DOG with 35's and 5.29's...5th gear its useless unless its perfectly flat or going down a hill.
    cam the shit out of it lc engineering out of arizona makes all kinds of engine build kits. i had an 84 4runner i pulled the engine and overhauled it with there stage 3 kit thing would crawl anywere

    i was running 4.56 with 37's
    95 yj full width d44 front chrystler 9.25 rear 318 tf727 np208

  24. #24

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    My 22R with 4.37's and 38's I Can cruise at 55mph and if i want to rev the shit out of it I could drive 65 until i came to a hill. 4.88s won't make a huge difference but Hopefully my Turbo propane setup will add the ponies I need.

  25. #25
    Hayes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dezrik View Post
    Get driveshafts built, im cheap so Square driveshaft up front and probably going to go with Davezperformanceoffroad for the rear driveshaft, unless i find a cheaper place to make me a driveshaft for under $300.
    Call Rocky Mountain Driveline. They did a double cardan rear drive shaft for about 250 for my 4runner. All to my specs.

  26. #26

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    Warmed up the garage and got back to work, I removed the Front shock mounts, cleaned it up and primered the area. Ive cut off so many front shock mounts its almost second nature for me to cut them off perfectly everytime without cutting into the frame







    Wife caught me in the garage so I had her snap a few pics , always wear proper PPE



  27. #27
    yota79crawler's Avatar
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    lookin for a good w56? ive got one out of an 88 yota

  28. #28

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    lookin GOOD!!! I will be doing an SAS before too long myself!

    -Zach
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    94 Toyota Pickup, 4" Marlin, duals, e-lockers...
    I used to own a jeep...
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  29. #29

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    Out with the Old.....

    I started stripping the old frame, unbolted the original axle and sent it to phil.
    FINALLY finished paying off AJ for the Front Axle 85 housing, ARB Locker, ARP Steering studs, Marlin Hysteer. I'm boing to truss the axle a bit more then AJ had it already, knuckle truss and a custom bend upper truss that I made, it will look SWEET. Heres a few pictures, not much progress at the end of the week. Will post pictures of the new axle and Hopefully get the front spring hanger IFS box and Shocks hoops all mounted up by Monday.






    btw, if my pictures are too large speak up

  30. #30
    64jeep's Avatar
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    thats lookin great keep up the good werk

  31. #31
    bigo1966's Avatar
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    Your cinder block jack stands REALLY scare me. Just be careful. And I digg your toyota.

  32. #32

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    First thing I did today was get the axle off the trailer and bolt up the wheels/tires it helps to move the axle around with only one guy, weighing in on 130lbs Im not equipt to pick this fawker up by myself, Here is a few snaps of the Axle, I spun the pinion around to check and see how tight it is, I found it odd that it would catch and the pinion wouldn't move, so it looks like im going to have to pull the 3rd and check everything out, heck I should check it out regardless. Hopefully everything is fine in there I'm not equipped to setup a set of new gears





    Butttt... Im not going to tear into it until I burn in my front spring hanger and make sure everything is straight and ready to go. I build a hybrid spring out of a Rear spring pack and my allpro front springs, I call it MyPro-Springs , It turns out that the rear springs have a little lift in them (2.5 my guess i think they are ranchos). They came off of my truck a year ago. The spring pin? is forward 1" hopefully this helps my shackle angle a little, by the pics It looks like it may work out great, The spring pack is also longer (48") All-Pros are 46". IT WAS A BITCH TO DRILL A HOLE IN THE SPRING good thing i only had to drill 2 leafs. So, I used everything off the Allpro springs other then the main leaf, since it already had the hole there to line everything up, Looks good ). I may take a few leafs out if the lift is to much. (I want it LOW but still clear my tires (37's or 38's) I will be cutting up the Fenders/Bed.






    I Think BigO jinxed me, I started jacking up the front to take the cinder blocks out, i know they were dangerous so i was cautious bumping or hitting the truck. I started to jack it up and i didn't have one damn click on the hilift and boom TRUCK DOWN!!!!!!! Didn't hurt anything and it didn't bash my oil pan in, the front of the truck only hit at the spring hanger.




    Alright Its back on the jackstands no cinderblocks Tomarrow Hopefully I Can weld in the front hanger and start on the power steering box.

    Last edited by dezrik; November 22nd, 2009 at 09:52 PM.

  33. #33
    bigo1966's Avatar
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    Man im glad you are ok, and i hope i didnt jinx you. Ive just read too many stories about people being crushed by there own cars.

  34. #34

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    Looks like this is where my Spring hanger my sit, Im still undecided. I ordered a set of boomerang shackles from Sky, Ill install those and see where Im at. So after alot of reading on the pinion angle and caster angles. I Figured out that The spring should sit evenly on the frame to cure the bad pinion angle im having, so Hopefully the boomerang shackles will set it about right where it needs to be to be level.





    Lined up one of the stock steering box holes and Bolted it on (one bolt) Just to get an Idea of where I was at, Looks like Im going to have to clearance the front spring hanger to move it forward at least 1" then there will be no binding issues I believe






    Look how close the box is to the hanger :mad3: I didn't for see this before I bought the sky hanger oh well


  35. #35

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    I unbolted the rear end off of my original frame I built, pushed it into the garage to see where im at lift/ spring hanger placement. Im going to tack everything temporarly so i can move the frame outside and set the engine/transmission and t-case in to see how much its going to change my shackle angles and im going to make it permanent. Measure 10000 times and Weld only once , took me $300 to figure that out on the last frame, im ashamed to say I welded one of the rear spring hangers off by 1/4" Which caused the rear axle to steer to the passenger side , I also welded one Shock hanger higher then the other it looked funny but I decided to start fresh as my old frame was bent



  36. #36

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    I personally would not weld any hangers permanently until you have the entire truck back together. Just a little bit of weight add on the Yotas makes a big difference.

  37. #37

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    Found this old Flex shot picture from a couple of weeks after I got it Stock gearing/open/open and Stock springs on 33's I could almost go anywhere



    Doing some more work on the truck today My plan today is to move the axle 4" back from the stock location, 1) To give me more wheelbase (Hoping for 108-112") but It looks like its going to be around 107" With rears up front pushing it 2" forward and All-Pro extended rears with the hangers mounted right where the stock hangers used to be. Pictures to come, I got the engine/trans/tcase and bolted up my fror t-case plate mounted so i can start fabbing up my flatbelly then Hopefully burn in my Power steering plates

  38. #38

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    Damn to cold outside -9f, Ran out of heat so I have to wait till tomarrow to get more fuel. I'm done jacking with the axle placement in the rear. As it is right now Im at 108" of WB and I have 28" of belly height on 36" Tires (I Know its a a little High), Once I get the body on then Ill check the belly height again. Don't know if its going to make much difference, Once the body is on I will lower it till my tires bearly clear the sheetmetal at the bump stops . Pictures..............






  39. #39
    MDert's Avatar
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    Holy crap that's a lot of leaves in that rear pack, bet that rides real nice unloaded.

  40. #40

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    It actually flexes very nice even with no bed. Its an All-Pro rear spring 56"

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