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  1. #1

    Bronco Atlas install

    I didn't want to leave you guys out, but I did forget to post my little project here.

    Gutted Bronco:


    Cutting the extra frame bracing 1x2x.125" tube


    Dale working on the frame brace


    Frame brace Moched up


    Cutting the frame


    Big hole in the frame


    the atlas fits real nice


    Cutting the stiffener for the body to clear Atlas


    Big hole in floorboard to clear front driveshaft


    Frame plated


    My front axle had been leaking and I thought it was the diff cover. Turns out it was weaping from the plug welds, which means the seal between the axle tube and the center section has been broken...oops! So we fixed that


    I had to order a 3/4" spacer because the output shaft on the ZF bottomed out inside the Atlas. I am waiting for the white van to show up any second now Driveshafts will be measured then and hopefully dropped off at the shop to modify them. We'll try to get cross members built this weekend and maybe floor pans patched.

    I know I'll have some big issues with exhaust to resolve and we cracked a brake line, so that'll need fixed.

    More pics after this weekend!

    J.D.
    God Forgives, Rock's Don't www.ucora.org
    1973 Bronco, 351 SEFI, Locked, discs, 35's ZF-5spd and Atlas 4spd. 235:1 Crawl Ratio

  2. #2
    Captain Radon Steve's Avatar
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    Clocking an Atlas flat in an EB is a bit of work, but you're gonna love both the extra clearance and the Atlas.

    You gonna fab up a skidplate so you have a flat belly pan?

  3. #3
    Yes sir! I hope to have the bottom of the skid plate level with or just above the bottom of the frame. Then I want to try and make some small skids for the leaf spring hanger because I hang up there a lot!

    J.D.

  4. #4
    The ring just arrived, may get something done yet today...

    J.D.

  5. #5
    HP 44? just wondering, planning on doing it with my Bronco buggy project. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=645403&page=2 Might be eaiser to do on my rig though

  6. #6
    Mythica's Avatar
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    Very nice!

    Quote Originally Posted by 74BuckinBronc View Post

    My front axle had been leaking and I thought it was the diff cover. Turns out it was weaping from the plug welds, which means the seal between the axle tube and the center section has been broken...oops! So we fixed that


    J.D.
    I noticed a smalll amount of gear oil in my plugs too, i was also thinking that it was the cover, but this seems to have opened my eyes.

    So are you saying that the tube and the pumpkin need to be rewelded in order to correct the issue or is it the seal inside that nees to be replaced?

    Thanks for the help, your going to love the low gears!

  7. #7
    I never knew there was that much modification to get an ATLAS between the frame rails of a Bronco.
    [SIZE=4]I don't even own a Jeep, oh wait I do and it is sick! [/SIZE]:P
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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1BGDOG View Post
    I never knew there was that much modification to get an ATLAS between the frame rails of a Bronco.

    me neither.

    i'm guessing a lot of guys just have them clocked down to clear the frame, great for that bling action.

  9. #9
    Captain Radon Steve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1BGDOG View Post
    I never knew there was that much modification to get an ATLAS between the frame rails of a Bronco.
    It's an easy install until you want to clock it up that last notch to get it flat. Then it hits both the underside of the tub and the frame rail.

  10. #10
    Weekend update:
    We got quite a bit more things done, but not having that spacer really set us back a good solid 8-10hrs of work!! O-well, that's how it goes.

    So here is the new spacer installed:


    Shifters installed for a test fit:


    One last hole in the floor-board to clear cable shifter brackets and vent:


    Check out the clearance from frame bottom to Atlas:


    Front X-member built:


    Now installed:


    Rear X-member built and installed:


    Both of them:


    Final drivers side frame rail:


    Final passenger side frame rail:


    The next order of business is to fix the brake line we cracked, modify and install drive shafts, build a skid plate, fill holes in floor-board, permanently mount shifters, build bracket for shifter support, & the nightmare of exhaust. One more solid weekend and this thing should be done!! The skid plat is going to go from outside of frame to outside of frame, and then from cross-member to cross-member. It will be attached to cross-members via countersunk screws.

    I think we're pretty well done until after the 4th of July. I may drop by Larry's on Wed. night to install drive shafts, fill the case with oil and take her for test drive. It will be load with only the headers.

    1sicbronconut - I like your build! The HPD44 is from a '77 F150, but there are other years.

    Mythica - as I understand it, there is a tight press fit between the tube and the center section from the factory that seals the axle there. Some abuse or just heavy use appears to have moved the tube slightly or something, enough to break that seal, so it starts leaking. This started leaking the same time I broke the front hub.

    J.D.

  11. #11
    Great thread. 74BuckinBronc: Can I please get some more info about your hydro band saw? I used to work at a shop that had a similar saw, but was quite a bit larger (read: not going to fit in my garage). That is exaclty what I am thinking about getting. Where did you get it, how much was it, etc... etc...


    For those wondering about moding a frame for atlas, Commandos have the same problem.
    Can I recommend you use a search engine here without getting in trouble?
    Search for Rock Zombie Outlaws. Come visit us!
    Thanks! :)

  12. #12
    Janky, Sorry I have no info on that saw because we are doing the work at a friends shop. I do know he bought it used from Craigslist. It appears to be pretty old, but I will see what I can find out. Thanks!

    J.D.

  13. #13
    Old = added character. I just got a hand held bandsaw, but those hydro ones are so nice. I must have one.

  14. #14
    I didn't catch the "Hydro" and I am not familiar with those, but I am pretty sure this one is NOT hydro. It is an old electric one. Works fine tho!

    J.D.

  15. #15
    An update:
    Long tube header removed
    Front driveshaft installed
    Shifter cover made
    I have these items ordered and to arrive before the weekend:
    moroso spiral baffle muffler
    shorty headers
    speedometer gear
    speedometer cable





    This weekend's major hurdles are routing the exhaust, making one more small patch panel for the floor, and making the skid plate. All the other stuff is small.

    I can't wait to just drive it to see how it's changed!!

    J.D.

  16. #16

    She's driveable!

    Whew, what a weekend! I am beat! But my bronco did get finished to a point where it is driveable and home.

    Here is the 1/4" skid plate cut


    Here it is bent and mocked into place


    We used 2x2x1/4" angle to stiffen the plate as well as use as a mounting so there are NO HOLES in the bottom


    Finished shifter tunnel


    Floor pan patch done!


    Buttoned up. Notice the skid plate goes from outside frame to outside providing optimum protection!


    Exhaust clearance and notice the mounting bolt for the skid plate


    What's left? Well we wasted most of Saturday trying to make out own exhaust and once we got from the headers to where it collects into one, we set the bronco down to find the front driveshaft hit the exhaust at ride height. So it was decided to get the pro at a shop to do it. Hopefully I can work something out this week. I also have to figure out why the speedometer doesn't work, but other than that, it's in and functioning. Shifting seems REALLY tight as I have to be moving to shift the gears. There were a couple times I had to get out and push the bronco a couple feet just to get it into another gear. But as I use it more, it'll break in and hopefully shift better.

    Special thanks to Larry for the use of his shop and expertise for a MONTH and to Dale for his experience and help. I couldn't have done it without you guys!!

    J.D.

  17. #17
    Captain Radon Steve's Avatar
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    Very nice J.D.

  18. #18
    Thanks Steve! Means a lot coming from a fella with your experience in these sort of things.

    J.D.

  19. #19

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    I've been trying to figure out what the third shifter is for, then I finally saw the additional reduction unit at the tcase input.

    Very nice!

  20. #20
    Yep, planetary on the front with a gear reduction box in the rear... I am shifter poor for sure!! If my drivetrain gets any longer, I will have to run a chain and cog setup to the rear axle...

    J.D.

  21. #21
    Had the exhaust redone on Friday. I had them take the driver side forward from the header to just in front of the axle, then over to the passenger side thru a saddle in the oil pan and then back. It turned out pretty good, but it was more than I was hoping to spend. And instead of going back to the 2-1/4" stuff, I had them run 2-1/2" the whole way. After hearing the difference between what we had done and what the exhaust shop did, you could tell ours was quite restrictive. The sounds did get back to as loud as it was with the flowmaster, but it's got a throatier sound like a V8 should sound. I am pleased! I also installed the front driveshaft and tied any loose wires up so it is ready for our test run this weekend! Pics to come later!

    J.D.

  22. #22
    Hey J.D.

    What do your drive angles look like after clocking the Atlas flat? I was always concerned with my angles after dropping the Cummins/NV4500/Atlas in. A HP D44 up front should be fine, but what about the rear? Are you planning on running a High 9 or is it a non-issue.

    PICS!!!!

    Jim
    Old School Blazer with some stuff....

  23. #23
    High 9 would be awesome, but I think I can get by without it for now. I did do some grinding on the CV joint so it would not bind at full droop. I took material off all contact points, but it was very little and I will rarely have the whole rear hanging like it was on the lift in the pictures above. I'll see if I can get some pictures of it at ride height. I also need to take some of the exhaust as well.

    Stay tuned...

  24. #24
    OK, Jim, here is your picture:

    I didn't do any rotating of the rear axle and I don't think I have any vibs from the driveshaft, however my wheels are so bad, I can't tell.

    Exhaust:
    Here is the drivers side as it comes forward and crosses over in the saddle in the oil pan:


    Headed back down the passenger side:


    Collected into 1 and then headed back to the moroso spiral and out.


    Also, I did take it out on Sat. and did not have any issues at all. It was wet at the ranch we went to, so I didn't ever get to use the 10:1, but the 3.8:1 was very nice for most of the obstacles. Also, it seems to be shifting better as well. I mistakenly put the Atlas in Neutral a couple times, but both times it went back into either high or low so I did not get stuck in Neutral. I did notice the engine temperature was around 200-210 or so, which is about 10-20* above normal, so I may need a fan shroud.

    Also, this has happened a couple times when I have gotten it that warm, the engine will tick a little bit. What could that be? I would guess it was a valve, but I have never really heard one like that before. Last time it did it I was trying to climb a hill that requires a lot of momentum, so the rpms were pretty high for a couple attempts.

    J.D.

  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by 74BuckinBronc View Post
    High 9 would be awesome, but I think I can get by without it for now. I did do some grinding on the CV joint so it would not bind at full droop. I took material off all contact points, but it was very little and I will rarely have the whole rear hanging like it was on the lift in the pictures above. I'll see if I can get some pictures of it at ride height. I also need to take some of the exhaust as well.

    Stay tuned...
    --------------------------------------

    Note- I'm a long time Mustang guy and recent Early Bronco owner, read: ignorant (but learning) when it comes to the 4x4 world!

    In regard to HP 44's and High 9's I've got a question, which HP axles make good candidates to slide under the Early Bronco's?

    I'm sure everyone's idea of "good" will differ based on their particular application/fab skills/aptitude etc but I'm all ears!

    Thanks,

    Julian
    Last edited by JulzRulz; August 1st, 2008 at 04:32 PM.

  26. #26
    Captain Radon Steve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JulzRulz View Post
    --------------------------------------

    Note- I'm a long time Mustang guy and recent EB owner, read: ignorant (but learning) when it comes to the 4x4 world!

    In regard to HP 44's and High 9's I've got a question, which HP axles make good candidates to slide under our EB's?
    A 78 or 79 Bronco HP D44 works. I'm putting a HP D60 under my EB this winter. That's for the front. Rear you're looking at putting a TrueHi9 center section in the existing 9", but that's spendy. All depends on what kind of wheeling you do, what size of tires you want to run and how big your check book is. You can get a Bronco HP D44 complete for under $300, and the install isn't bad. A HP D60 will run $1,000 or so for the axle. TrueHi9 center section is ~$1,000.

    Read this thread for a good recent discussion of front axle choices for an EB.

  27. #27
    The HP44's also came in F-150's of the same years and then some. I know mine is out of a '77, but other than 78 & 79, I am not sure what other years F-150's had them.

    J.D.

  28. #28

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    eng. temps

    Quote Originally Posted by 74BuckinBronc View Post
    OK, Jim, here is your picture:

    I didn't do any rotating of the rear axle and I don't think I have any vibs from the driveshaft, however my wheels are so bad, I can't tell.

    Exhaust:
    Here is the drivers side as it comes forward and crosses over in the saddle in the oil pan:


    Headed back down the passenger side:


    Collected into 1 and then headed back to the moroso spiral and out.


    Also, I did take it out on Sat. and did not have any issues at all. It was wet at the ranch we went to, so I didn't ever get to use the 10:1, but the 3.8:1 was very nice for most of the obstacles. Also, it seems to be shifting better as well. I mistakenly put the Atlas in Neutral a couple times, but both times it went back into either high or low so I did not get stuck in Neutral. I did notice the engine temperature was around 200-210 or so, which is about 10-20* above normal, so I may need a fan shroud.

    Also, this has happened a couple times when I have gotten it that warm, the engine will tick a little bit. What could that be? I would guess it was a valve, but I have never really heard one like that before. Last time it did it I was trying to climb a hill that requires a lot of momentum, so the rpms were pretty high for a couple attempts.

    J.D.

    You may want to wrap your exhaust were it goes under the oil pan. It could be getting the oil too hot.

    Or get some fries to deep-fry on the trail???????????

  29. #29
    Yeah, I may try something like that. I did take it out again a couple weeks ago and it did fine. I was more concious about high RPMs, and we were in more open landscape so it was a bit cooler as well. Couldn't hurt to wrap it tho!

    J.D.

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