Front 69 Build

[Swat]

I will be starting the build on a front hybrid Dana 60/Ford 9" this weekend. I am using Dana 60 kingpin outers with 5 on 5.5 lugz (I already have 15" beadlocks), a Spidertrax housing, True Hi9 35 Spliner W/ARB, 5.38 gears, Duffs Radius arms, Wedges from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard, DOM and chevy 1 ton TRE's for steerage, and will probably get a set of axles from Superior. I have been :drool: 'ing over this project for months! Will go in my narrowed, bobbed, exoed, Fullsize Bronc with 39.5 IROK's, NP 205, and Klune-V Goliath (5.72 1st gear, 1.96 np 205, 2.7 Klune V Goliath, 5.38 gears = 162:1 Lo lo!

Side note, Currie has a nice housing but it has the ball joint style knuckles. Diamond uses Dedenbear and has a great housing but I feel the stock knucks are good enough for my application and less expensive. SunRay was more expensive. Hey, I got to support a local shop with a great housing and no shipping!

The first step is to grind down and remove the inner knuckles from the old housing. Pictures to come as progress ensues!

Some parts below:

The bottom housing is the front drivers drop I needed and have:pbj:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/423460/fullsize/spidertrax-housing.jpg

5 on 5.5 Dana60 outers, bought an axle set off E-bay:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/273377/fullsize/hubs-disks.jpg

Viva Le difference! "N" case low pinion VS True Hi9:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/290948/fullsize/dscn1507.jpg

The true Hi9 is an expensive chunk but I believe well worth it. I ran a 31 spliner with ARB in the rear for a little over a year in my rig as daily driver and ran trails with no problems. I went to the true Hi9 after this carnage with a stock case, 4.11's and 37" tires (I also added a couple inches of lift). The next week point was the stock 31 spline axles. The True Hi9 held up well even after popping the splines off of two stock axles. I beat on it with over 400 ftlbs of torque mutiplied by a 5.72:1 1st gear 2,000ftlbs! and in low 5.72 X 3.8 X 400 X.9 (friction baby) = 7,800ftlbs!
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/410456/fullsize/blown-9.jpg

I am currently building-up used Double cardan 1350/1 ton drive shafts that will save me about $200 per shaft vs a high angle shaft from Jesse or Tom Woods which would be needed with a low pinion 9" case. Plus the True Hi9 should help prevent future driveline problems as it gets them up and out of the way.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/423484/fullsize/driveshaft-clearance.jpg

[Mrfreeze5]

Hell yeah!!!

[Joel77]

I'll be watching this build.

I plan on doing the same thing.

Joel

[Mr. Gutwrench]

"Blown" must refer to your $$$$. Super build. Can't wait to watch it progress.

[Swat]

"Blown" must refer to your $$$$. Super build. Can't wait to watch it progress.

"Blown" as in my cash, my rig, my mind, my tranny, my engine, my rear differential, a tire, a bead, that promotion,...........a relationship............Over Blown??? Yes!

It has taken a year to get this together, sold a built high pinion D44, and this is my "one thing"!

May be kind of a slow build, but will be happy to share and take suggestions. One additional thing I need is a stronger welder. I can tack it together with my little Lincoln 175 but will need something bigger for final weldsl.


Oh it ain't no 609 that is six hundred and nine. Could be a 60/9 but It be a 69/sixty nine, and yes I like the sexual reference.

[Swat]

Good God! I heard it was no easy task, but banging the inner steering knuckles off was a real PIA! Ground the weld off and in to the knuckles a little as the weld should have penetrated some. Getting the knucks off was about all I got done this week end. Some family time, beer time, and Bronco time too. Some pics:

The crack/joint is visable after 40 wacks
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/424849/fullsize/dscn1764.jpg
About half way off you can see I ground too deep into the tube to the right of the knuck.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/424850/fullsize/dscn1766.jpg
One knuck off and hanging on the new housing
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/424851/fullsize/dscn1767.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/424852/fullsize/dscn1768.jpg

I present from our Cat, So I guess it's "Rat Head" Fabrication now! I found this sitting by the axle on Sunday morning.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/424853/fullsize/dscn1770.jpg

[Mrfreeze5]

Lookin nice! I decided my time and my wrists were worth more than stock inners so i just ponied up and bought a set of Crane inners for mine. I got sick of whacking the stupid housing.

[Swat]

The knucks came off reasonable well. Hard work, many breaks, and then wack away again. Damn the knucks are 3.25 diameter, housing is 3", any ideas from the pros??? DOM sleeve? 3.005 ID and .120 thick wall??? I may have to have something turned down.

[stadlerm]

clean up those old ones and sell em on ebay and buy the right size.
mike

[Swat]

clean up those old ones and sell em on ebay and buy the right size.
mike

I'm saving for the True Hi9 and will make these inner "C"/knucks work. There is a Black pipe that is 3" ID schedule 40 that I could make work.

Fricken knew some black pipe would make into the build! Picked-up a 3"X12" Black Nipple!
Now to machine a proper fit.

Anybody want to do a little lathe work???

[SUPERGILDO43]

what are you doin with the nodular 3rd?!

[Swat]

what are you doin with the nodular 3rd?!

Sold em already:shrug:

[Swat]

The black pipe is too large, not really 3" ID, So that is out. Exhaust pipe and tubing, like DOM, is manufactured using OD's, So 3" OD is too small. I would have to have some custom peices made on a lathe or order up some Dedenbears. I'll use the stock knucks and like the idea of bullet proof inner knucks/C's from Dedenbear. I don't want to build it again or have to replace a stock inner "C" from breakage and or because the sleeves got FUBAR. I can imagine too many things to go wrong in trying to beat on the stock knucks with sleeves. I have always gone bigger and the Dedenbears would hold-up to larger tires. I am already thinking about 42's down the line. Will order-up some today by flexing the credit card. Read into this my rationalization for the Damn orange powder coated, expensive, frickin' Dedenbear inner C's. They will get sanded and painted black.

I ordered-up through Offroad Design in Glenwood Springs. Support your local shops!

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/426267/fullsize/innerc-2pirate.jpg

[Swat]

I should have the Dedenbears on Tuesday, so no worky till next weekend. Armor for the True Hi9 Dropout. I made this for the rear and will make another for the front. It bolts-up in the back to a single 3/4" stud, hang it off it and rotate it up to the pinion retainer bolts. Not sure If I will truss the rear axle or get a new housing, either way the skid/dido/armor will have to be modified. Ya, I had to wallow-out the one hole to fit and added a washer. Hey it's like a Ford 9" diaper!

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/292409/fullsize/dscn1544.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/292410/fullsize/dscn1546.jpg

Installed:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/427090/fullsize/dscn1757.jpg

The inner C's are on the UPS truck to be delivered today!

[Swat]

Ohhhhhh YAAA! I had a little windfall come my way last night. An unexpected family debt repaid. Allowed me to order-up another freakin' True Hi9 needed for the build! I need to get a handle on some kingpin rebuild kits and it will be time to mock it up and tack weld it under my rig!

A handsome chunk, custom cut gears, custom housing, custom oiler, ring gear support blocks etc. etc.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/429473/fullsize/hi9fromside.jpg

This is the POS I'm putting the axle under, older pic, I am reworking and adding exo, lost the doors, and will make some tube doors (crawlin' over somethin' on Chinamans):

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/302571/fullsize/chinamans-gulch-11-13-2005-134.jpg

Might be a shame to put the axle under ole F'Ugly but I like it. A buggy might be in the works for the future and all the running gear would swap-in. Right now I want to drive to trails and a truck and trailor is not in the budget with other projects.

[Swat]

OMG!:eek: I have already received a tracking number for the shipment of the True Hi9! Professional service in a very timely manner. Kudoes to the way cool, very real, True Hi9 guy!:hail: Chris:hail: Chris:hail: Chris

I miss wheeling, my rig has been down for this build since last Christmas. I hope to have her all done before the snow flies in Denver.

A few more shots of the True Hi9 (first one I had, 31 spline, single support block)
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/292405/fullsize/dscn1519.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/292406/fullsize/dscn1526.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/292407/fullsize/dscn1541.jpg

:bounce4: :bounce4: :bounce4: :bounce4: :bounce4: :bounce4: :bounce4:

[Swat]

A little progress, cleaned up the king pins, associated hardware, and mounted-up the housing with the wedges. Next I'll bolt up the True Hi9, determine the proper placement for pinion angle with the driveshaft/T-case and tack the wedges to the housing. Then cut to length and install the inner C's to proper caster. The rear axle is 65" WMS to WMS, I figure on going 2" wider in the front but need to see what a stock housing is to be sure and clear tires/not f'up the turning radius. I think the front is a little wider in stock form. Pics below:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/430911/fullsize/dscn1786.jpg
Notice the bling blue anodized fill plug from Spidertrax. It matches the Radius arm and C bushings (not planned), may have to tone that down to keep it on the housing. Somebody will be wearing it around there neck attached to a gold chain!
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/430912/fullsize/dscn1787.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/430916/fullsize/dscn1794.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/430918/fullsize/dscn1795.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/430913/fullsize/dscn1790.jpg

Looks like I need to cut down the front of the cross member or the housing center will contact it.

[Swat]

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/431097/fullsize/dscn1796.jpg

Anyone recognize this caliper?
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/431100/fullsize/dscn1800.jpg

[OlBlueCJ7]

Early 80's Waggy. ?

[CSP]

Yep, 70s-80s Chevy/fullsize Jeep. Both 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton used the same caliper. The only differences in the range of years is early ones used SAE banjo bolt and later used metric.

[Swat]

Thanks, Nice to count on the expertise on this board. So I get to try to match something up.

[Swat]

I am building this in place under the rig. I put both front and rear axles at the same height, installed the radius arms/springs, and put the weight of the rig on it. Then I proceded to get everything in the right place. I mounted the True Hi9, driveshaft and got the pinion angle correct. I set it so the pinion is 1.5 degrees above the driveline (The torque will tend to move the pinion down under load and you need some angle to move the U-joint bearings and keep 'em healthy). I tightened down the Radius Arms and got one Dedenbear inner "C" beat on. I started it and then it took a little smacking around to get it at the correct caster angle (added 2 degrees for the slope of the driveway). That pretty bright orange powder coat is all over the garage floor from wacking the "C"s. I did not have to cut the tube on the drivers side, it was the right length. I cut the passenger side and started the inner "C" and will wack it on the rest of the way tonight. I set the length WMS to WMS at 69"s. Kinda made sense since it's a 69 hybrid. This has been easier than I thought it would be. Helped that I had previously swapped in a D44 monotube. I measured, measured again, and once more before I cut and double and triple checked the angles with my handy Johnson angle finder. The RA's, springs/buckets, brake lines, track bar, and shocks where already set-up. Looks like I'll be measuring for axles, track bar, drag link and tie rod and ordering-up sooner than I thought. I'll go with Superior for the rolled splines and Spidertrax for the dom and weld in bungs for chevy TRE's. I also need to track down and modifiy a spindle. One is bad the outer bearing wobbles on it. It needs a track bar bracket, inner "C"s and Radius arm wedges welded on. I got to match-up the Brake calipers and get pads too. Boring without pics I'll get some up tonight.

Edit: ordered 35 spline yukon outers, milemarker lock outs, and seals. Looks liek I will go with Moser inners since superior is behind, last order Iplaced with them was two month late!
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/434522/fullsize/dscn1829.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/434523/fullsize/dscn1826.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/434530/fullsize/dscn1817.jpg

[Swat]

I have referenced Bill Vista Dana 60 Bible numerous times and thought I would share the link: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/

Here is the modification to the steering knuckle and spindle that were made to clear chevy 3/4 ton brakes with 15" wheels. Pictures worth a thousand words.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/431110/fullsize/dscn1812.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/431109/fullsize/dscn1811.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/431108/fullsize/dscn1810.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/431102/fullsize/dscn1802.jpg
Radius - outside of caliper to center only 13"
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/431106/fullsize/dscn1807.jpg

[Swat]

may have to do something to the engine crossmember. I need to get it completed and cycle the suspension to see what I got. The D44, I had in before, sandwiched the track bar in between the diff and the crossmember and just touched at full compression. The True Hi9 puts the pinion up higher but more to the drivers side so gets it out of the way. I had previously put a notch, using about a quarter peice of 6" tube cut at an angle, in the tranny crossmember to clear the driveshaft at full droop. A strait-on shot at the pinion would be better but this picture illustrates where the pinion is in relation to the crossmember:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/434523/fullsize/dscn1826.jpg

The Superduty driveshafts I got look to need some work too. The rear one may be OK, but the front will need some grinding in the cardan joint to get more flex. Stock they are not high angle and only flex 20 degrees.

I believe I will also add a second shock mount in front fo the axle, welded to the front C clamp on the radius arm. The Rancho adjustable is at full dampening and is still a little soft with the superflex coils. I'll add a basic long travel up front and should then be able to dial the rancho from soft to firm. Soft for crawlin' and firm for bashing!

[Swat]

Tacked it up this weekend, made a trackbar and mount at the axle, pulled it, and welded it all up. Paint next and assembly next weekend if the inner axles get to me in time! Then it is steering time.


http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/436481/fullsize/dscn1838.jpg

This is the plan for steering, Chevy stuff for the stronger TRE's vs Fords:
1.50 OD x 1.00 ID DOM for the tie rod and drag link with weld-in 7/8 - 18 threaded hex bungs from Spidertrax. I prefer the weld in threaded bungs vs tapping.
Reamer is 7 degrees (3.5 per side)
Afco Racing $120 p/n 80770
http://www.afcoracing.com/products/g...ProductID&31
Optional Reamer Sources:
Stock Car Products $80 p/n R8201
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/
Goodson $50 p/n TR-216-2
http://www.goodson.com/scripts/mshop/
Snap On $37 p/n R121
https://buy.snapon.com/

Rod ends:

Autozone:
ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod
ES2234R $23.99 driver side tie rod
ES2027L $18.99 high misalignment drag link end
ES2026R $20.99 high misalignment drag link end
The tie rod ends should come with the jam nuts, but the drag links won't.
I'll pick those up from Spidertrax with the weld in threaded hex bungs. These are the Chevy part numbers for jam nuts 14026805 (left hand) and 14026806
(right hand).

I'll ream the knuckles from the top to go "knuckle under" or put the tie rod over the knuckles. It helps to get the angles right to prevent bump steer and to gain more clearance. I've already set-up the Track bar. I had a drop bracket welded to the frame and put a riser bracket on the axle to keep the angle down. I used a piece of pipe for the drag link to mock it up and be able to get the track bar and drag link close to parallel.

[Swat]

I like using a red oxide primer for steel. The color is like a Ruddy Brown.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/438078/fullsize/dscn1850.jpg


http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/438079/fullsize/dscn1858.jpg

I bolted-up the housing, bolted-up the track bar, installed the inner seals, knuckles, and am waiting on inner axles. Man I can't wait to get my rig rolling again!:hail:


http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/438466/fullsize/dscn1863.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/438465/fullsize/dscn1861.jpg

[Swat]

Tried to assemble and the short side inner is not machined far enough up the shaft from the splines to insert the fully into the diff.! I got the joy of trying and taking the Hi9 down again goobed up with sillycone. Ooops on Moser and me! A little checking/preassembly would have saved me some frustration I am attempting to find someone local to turn it down on a lathe. It only engages about 2/3's of the splines and sticks out too far into the knuckle!
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/440262/fullsize/dscn1877.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/440263/fullsize/dscn1875.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/440264/fullsize/dscn1874.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/440266/fullsize/dscn1878.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/440265/fullsize/dscn1871.jpg

[Swat]

I sent the axle back to Moser today via FedEx. I decided it is better to let them get it right rather than have someone local take a chance on screwing it up or later it haunting me if I need Mosers warranty. No assembly for a couple weeks!

LOL, Moser reserves the right to replace your 35 spline shafts with 40 splines shafts if you break one!

[Swat]

UPS tracking says I should have the axle tomorrow and will do the final assembly this week end. then I'lll need to set-up the steering links and hydro assist. Then I get to twin stick the NP205, tune the motor, add exo, make tube doors etc etc etc. But at least it will be rolling soon!!!!

[Swat]

Dayamn! My Bronc is on alll four for the first time in 10 months!!!!

I got it assembled but had ordered both axles 3/16th too long so both sides were in a bind. So I got to pull them, cut and install again. That's OK though rather too long than too short. I am using Milemarker locks and they do not allow the use of the "C" clips on the stubs to keep the stub seal tight against the spindle. Cutting the axles to the right length keeps them out there properly.

Clue here, I measured from the center/cross pin in the ARB and the splines don't go all the way into the cross pin, off by about 3/16ths. I had sent an axle back to moser to neck down a little more and ended up necking them both down with my 4.5" grinder anyway as I took off the additional 3/16th. I'd love to have a lathe. I suggest that if you order custom size axles to have them run that shoulder or neck down further up the axle from the splines than you will actually need.

I hope to get an afternoon this week to run out to Spidertrax for steering/threaded bungs/lock nuts and DOM. Boring, I'll get some pics up later this week.

[Swat]

Some pics sans tie rod and drag link and hydro assist:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/448974/fullsize/dscn1906.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/448975/fullsize/dscn1907.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/448976/fullsize/dscn1909.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/448977/fullsize/dscn1910.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/448978/fullsize/dscn1911.jpg

This is the end I cut off the long side inner shaft and the following pic, dayamn!, had to disassenble and cut a little more. I'm getting damn good with a 4.5" cut off blade!
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/448979/fullsize/dscn1913.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/448981/fullsize/dscn1916.jpg

Sorry the pics are out of focus cause I was in a hurry! Next is steerring form Spidertrax.

[Swat]

I picked-up my DOM and inserts yesterday and will take some pics tonight to post up. These "Hex Head" bungs are cool: http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/449188/fullsize/hex.gif

[Swat]

Steerage! Awaiting left hand jamb nuts.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/453214/fullsize/dscn1933.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/453215/fullsize/dscn1934.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/453216/fullsize/dscn1935.jpg

I'll post up here when I get the hydro assist done!

[74BuckinBronc]

Just keeping up with the build. Looking very nice!!

J.D.

[crackhead]

Cant say im all about the hex inserts.. I run Poison Spyders and love em.. The axle rocks, man.. Id like to stop by and check it out sometime..

[Swat]

Cant say im all about the hex inserts.. I run Poison Spyders and love em.. The axle rocks, man.. Id like to stop by and check it out sometime..

PM me sometime I'd be glad to show off my half-assed build. I'm newer to Colorado and in need of mor wheeling buddies. My rig needs much more work to be trails ready but it is getting there. I should be driving it soon and ready for trails after the first of the year.

[Swat]

This axle will get trussed. Spidertrax gets all the cool laser cut tabs, they weld the housing together from laser cut pieces and are working on a weld together truss. I am going to see what they come-up with before I do anything. I want something simple, on top, on each side of the pumpkin. Nothing under to kill the great clearance and it can't go over the pumpkin unless I make a custom engine crossmember. I'd take ideas???

Dang, still waiting for left hand lock nuts for the steering!

[shains91]

This axle will get trussed. Spidertrax gets all the cool laser cut tabs, they weld the housing together from laser cut pieces and are working on a weld together truss. I am going to see what they come-up with before I do anything. I want something simple, on top, on each side of the pumpkin. Nothing under to kill the great clearance and it can't go over the pumpkin unless I make a custom engine crossmember. I'd take ideas???

Dang, still waiting for left hand lock nuts for the steering!

You can do what most of our customers do and buy the TRE's and take the jam nuts out, then return then part.:flipoff2:

I am ready to wheel when ever you are. Let me know and I will go with you.

I have one question about your coils. I am also running the Superflex coils and I am having a problem with the pass side coil smacking the frame and making noise. I shimmed the lower coil mount, all of the bolts are tight, I have a strap on the inside of the coil to the tower. I cant figure out why in is moving side to side causing it to hit the frame, any thoughts. I am about to go the Fabtech ranger coils and ditch the superflexs.

Back to the build, Hijack over :D

[comanchekid]

maybe the track bar is too short so when the pass flexes down the it also goes towards the drivers side and would cause the coil to hit the frame...check your track and see if it is off..if you need a track bar....let me know if you find one cuz i may need one soon too...

[crackhead]

The onyl reason I can see that the spring would hit the frame is because its so long.. Ive got my buckets mounted kinda high, so I dont have that much bow.. Comanchekid, PM me before you buy a new trac bar, i can make you one for way less than you can buy one for...

[Swat]

The onyl reason I can see that the spring would hit the frame is because its so long.. Ive got my buckets mounted kinda high, so I dont have that much bow.. Comanchekid, PM me before you buy a new trac bar, i can make you one for way less than you can buy one for...


The Superflex springs are made by Deavers and are very spindley and will bow out if the spring buckets are not lined-up correctly. That in addition to the fact that the stock TTB axle locates the bottom bucket out further from the frame than you can get with a monotube axle. A custom lower bucket to mount the springs out further would be the solution.

[shains91]

The track bar is the right length. THe problem is during DD not wheeling. And happens on a bumpy road, the spring shakes, for lack of a better term. I also second making your own track bar, very easy and much more cost effective.

Thread back on :flipoff2:

[Jason's CJ5]

The track bar is the right length. THe problem is during DD not wheeling. And happens on a bumpy road, the spring shakes, for lack of a better term. I also second making your own track bar, very easy and much more cost effective.

Thread back on :flipoff2:


This problem will go away when we make the new lower mounts for the TTB coils.:cool:

[tmorgan4]

Thanks for documenting this axle build up. Lots of good info. :cool:

[Swat]

Thanks for documenting this axle build up. Lots of good info. :cool:


No problem. It was a little dream come true. :hail:

[D67]

Hey RatHeadFab :flipoff2:...

Nice build :smokin:. Got something similar, did the same thing...."send me a box of parts, gonna do it myself" :D. What did you use to put in those inner oil seals...press or hammer? I trashed one, then made my own press...so I'm probably doing something wrong, those looks great.

Next question...what'd you do with your air line? Looks cleaner than the copper tube, does it work the same, better, easier to deal with? Was it only possible because of the stock housing, or do you think it'll work in the Spidertrax?

Thanks,
Sean

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/292405/fullsize/dscn1519.jpg

[Swat]

Hey RatHeadFab :flipoff2:...

Nice build :smokin:. Got something similar, did the same thing...."send me a box of parts, gonna do it myself" :D. What did you use to put in those inner oil seals...press or hammer? I trashed one, then made my own press...so I'm probably doing something wrong, those looks great.

Next question...what'd you do with your air line? Looks cleaner than the copper tube, does it work the same, better, easier to deal with? Was it only possible because of the stock housing, or do you think it'll work in the Spidertrax?

Thanks,
Sean

I got the housing seals through Spidertrax and they push in easily. The problem was pushng them out when installing the axles. I welded some tabs in the housing to keep them in. Spidertrax has a new type seal that stays better, but shouldn't require a press to get them in. Here another source recenlty aquired on this website:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/5298,,_Inner-Axle-Seal.html?itemNo=TUBE+SEALS

That picture is of the old 31 spline ARB that I sold................. The 35 spline ARB uses the copper tube. True Hi9 has a pic of the best way to run the copper tube to prevent screwing-up the oiling that comes off the ring gear. The copper tube could effect the oiling if not run right.

Salute:flipoff2: :cool:

[D67]

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/5298,,_Inner-Axle-Seal.html?itemNo=TUBE+SEALS

That picture is of the old 31 spline ARB that I sold................. The 35 spline ARB uses the copper tube. True Hi9 has a pic of the best way to run the copper tube to prevent screwing-up the oiling that comes off the ring gear. The copper tube could effect the oiling if not run right.Those machined seals look like they'd work better and be easier to deal with than the CarQuest parts I used, tho they're three times the price.

Saw the pic of the routing for the 35sp, didn't know there was such a difference. Also saw the pic of another guy's version of a Hi9 diaper...did you make yours specific to the housing you had, or just to the diff?

[Swat]

Those machined seals look like they'd work better and be easier to deal with than the CarQuest parts I used, tho they're three times the price.

Saw the pic of the routing for the 35sp, didn't know there was such a difference. Also saw the pic of another guy's version of a Hi9 diaper...did you make yours specific to the housing you had, or just to the diff?

I used the blingety, anodized, billet ones at the bottom of the page. I like the ones at the top better if I had it to do over.

The diaper/upsidedown turtle, It's custom to the stock 1984 rear, bronco, 9" housing and True Hi9. Built for that combo. It will change a bit when I put on a backbrace to truss it up and I need to make one for the front (ya, I'll likely back it into something if I don't).