PDA

View Full Version : Ford Ball Joint Knuckles, I need em!



CHOPS
July 11th, 2006, 02:18 PM
I'm looking for aftermarket knuckles for a Ball Joint Ford Dana 60.

They need to use the Ford spindle, don't care about the caliper. I'll get new calipers but can't make the switch to Chevy spindles due to other conflicts. Does anyone make such a critter? With or without steering arms, dosen't matter.

Scott@Rockstomper
July 11th, 2006, 03:18 PM
Have to be aftermarket, or will stock work?
I've got a whole unibearing/balljoint straight axle D50 front that I'm pondering selling whole or parting out. Dunno if it's different knuckles than the intermediate Ford wheelbearing/balljoint 60 used, though. Unfortunately, unibearing = 8x170.

If memory serves, it might be different knuckles than were used with the wheelbearing setup, because (I think) the wheelbearing setup used the old five-stud spindle off the kingpin 60, not the four-bolt unibearing pattern. Could be wrong on that one, though.

I think Currie's aluminum knuckles are interchangeable with the 50 stuff I've got; I suspect Dynatrac's iron ones will interchange as well. Doesn't Dynatrac also have a balljoint/wheelbearing front end option available as well?

CHOPS
July 12th, 2006, 12:22 PM
Thanks Scott. The unit bearing is different (4 bolts as opposed to 5 on the Ford spindle). Axle shaft is also different. I need to stick with the Ford wheel bearing setup due to the outter axles. Dynatrack has a BJ knuckle but it only uses Chevy spindles and bearings (6 bolt and different bearings). This would entail new hubs, which I have alot of time and machine work into already..:rolleyes: Also new outter axles, unless there is enough spline to make it work. I doubt it will work without cutting 0.625 off the axle which I can't do because we need to match axles with the Ranger.. So it looks like I need a part that dosen't exist.. again.. I need something stronger than stock. I guess making the switch to KP is an option but that means removing the existing C's, again..

Scott@Rockstomper
July 12th, 2006, 12:53 PM
Hmm... sounds like you specifically need the intermediate Ford knuckle, but stronger... :(

If you get the Dynatrac knuckles and use redrilled Ford spindles and caliper brackets with them, you should be good. Just drill the Chevy pattern into the Ford spindle and bracket.

My current axles are Chevy pattern knuckles and Ford spindles, hubs, etc., I just double drilled the spindles, and used the 3/4T caliper bracket that we make, with some opening up of holes, to fit.

CHOPS
July 12th, 2006, 01:01 PM
That's what I was just looking into. So the minor diamenter on the back or the Ford spindle is the same as the Chevy? Thus the Ford spindle will "fit into" the chevy knuckle, holes need only be re-drilled? If not I'm pretty sure I can machine Chevy spindles to fit a Ford Hub. I was wrong, the Ford stuff is shorter than Chevy.. If I need to go that route do you happen to have any Chevy spindles? Pretty hard to come across at the boneyard.

Your a wealth of information, Thanks Scott!

Now all I need to do is stomach $325 each for dynatrack knuckles..:eek:

Scott@Rockstomper
July 12th, 2006, 01:25 PM
Following applies to wheelbearing stuff, I make no claims of knowing dimensions on the unibearing parts...

Backside pilot diameter of the spindle into the knuckle is the same between straightaxle Ford and straightaxle Chevy.

Straightaxle Ford spindles have a longer backside snout than Chevy because of the caliper bracket sandwich that they use; Chevy spindles have a frontside pilot as well (that is a different diameter) because Chevy stacks knuckle-spindle-caliperbracket, while Ford stacks knuckle-caliperbracket-spindle. Ford has no frontside pilot.

The stub axle thrust washer is in roughly the same location, relative to the knuckle face, when a Ford spindle and Ford caliper bracket are used together, as when a Chevy spindle (regardless of caliper bracket, since it sits outboard of the spindle) is used.

Chevy spindles are readily available from Randy's Ring-n-Pinion, although they're kinda spendy. While you can turn one down to make a Chevy pattern Ford spindle, it's a bunch of work, and I think it's easier (and about the same money) to buy a Ford spindle and simply drill the Chevy pattern into the flange... drill press is less work (and more common to have) than lathe.

I was assuming, based on your earlier posts in this thread, that you already have Ford spindles and wheel hubs? If not, Ford spindles are also available new aftermarket, and there's other TTB interchanges to work around hubs and the like, but depends on what parts you have, and what you need.

There's also some other interchanges that are acceptable on a race vehicle, that aren't acceptable on a street driven vehicle, some of which I'd rather not put on the 'net because I'm sure somebody will use it on the street.

CHOPS
July 12th, 2006, 01:55 PM
Great tech!

My frontend is a 93 Ford 60 and has an oddball POS knuckle w/ intergral caliper mounts. So I belive the back of the spindle should be the same as the Chevy (no caliper bracket between knuckle and spindle). The spindles on our KP 60 have a thicker lip on the back side than the BJ setup. I think they are the same spindle as on the TTB Dana 50 stuff with intergral caliper mounts. the Mounting the calipers won't be a problem, I can fab some mounts or if I use the dynatrack knucke it has intergral mounts for a chevy caliper.

Thanks for all the help Scott. All I have to do is re-drill my spindles, mount the caliper, grind axles and knucke for steering clearance and go!

I hear you on the street driven part. This is the trail / race only buggy and won't see any street as it's full hydro but I don't mess around when it comes to steering and brakes. Time to spend some cheese.

Scott@Rockstomper
July 12th, 2006, 02:58 PM
If you'd like, I've got some TTB spindles here that I can pull dimensions off of for you; if you have the TTB spindles, you could be in for some caliper mounting fun if the Dtrac knuckles don't have caliper mounts built in.

Does the BJ60 use the old school floating-wedge caliper setup, or does it swap to the modern two-bolts (sorta Wilwood style) mount? If it's two bolts Wilwood style, it should be easy enough to make a caliper bracket; if it's the old drive-in-the-I-beam-wedges style that's on the TTB (and on the KP60) then caliper mounting could be more challenging.

CHOPS
July 13th, 2006, 07:49 AM
Thanks for the offer to pull the dimensions but it's easy enough for me pull a spindle and get what I need. The BJ knuckle that I have (not sure if all Ford BJ knuckles are the same) has the floating wedge caliper mount. The Dynatrack knuckle looks to have the new two bolt Wilwood style mount. If not I'll use a bracket. I'm not going to mess with the floating wedge setup.

rjlougee
August 6th, 2006, 10:57 PM
The knuckles on the ball joint D60s aren't the same, they changed in '95 or 96. All the earlier ones were the wedge type caliper retainers (same as the king pin D60), but the last couple of years where the two bolt style like the Wilwood calipers. They're also supposed to have thicker webbing/better casting.

There's a yard in Denver that stocks a lot of D60 parts, I got a set of knuckles for my project from him. ROSITAKID is his user name on here.
HTH, Joe