View Full Version : 22r to 22re swap simple

June 30th, 2006, 11:49 PM
well after many hours of surfing the sites and checking out other guys swaps...i decided that i was ready to tackle this process....I checked into propane but the convience didnt make me feel comfortable to do this on a DD and weekend wheeler....

ok so here goes...the truck 1987 22R manual no ac
i got a EFI set up off of a 1990 truck 5 spd no ac, 2 piece intake with wiring harness and comp.

here is a list of the parts that you will need to get:
-Thorttle body and intake (1 or 2 piece)
-Fuel rail
-efi gas tank or external fuel pump
-efi dist (or at least one that isnt vaccum advance some carbs came with)
-airbox (afm)
-throttle cable

now for the wiring list
-fuel pressure
-a/c idel-up (if you have a/c)
-as vsv
-check connector
-knock sensor (depending on year of block may already be there)
-EFI igniter
-O2 sensor and bung for exhaust
-water thermo sensor
-injectors (make sure the harness is for the same year of injectors makes it easier)
-cold start injector
-air valve
-circuit opening relay

some other helpful items....FSM for the year of vehicle AND the year of EFI set up.
That is a basic list of the things that you will need part wise to get this process started.

Now for the obvious you need to remove all the carb intake vaccum lines air cleaner etc...
now after you get to this point make sure the head is SUPER clean....if you have a 2 piece intake now is the time to split it if not already done...makes installing a cake walk....install the lower intake and route the tube around the back side of engine at this time and hook up to under side of intake...if you do it now you have less to deal with....then clean the lower intake mounting sureface and upper mounting surface and install them together....leave the EGR loose at this time...just bolted to the head....once you get the upper intake bolted down the mount the EGR....hook you the vaccum lines and route and the loose hoses....
at this time you should have something that looks like the pics....now the FUN part.....deciding on where you are going to route the wiring harness through the firewall...you will have to cut your own hole...be careful not to drill into the heater ducting on the inside...i removed my glovebox at this time so i could get better access to where i was drilling the hole...remember the computer mounts on the kick panel of the passenger side!!!!!!! choose your location carefully.
i will write more tomorrow...i will get into the tank/fuel pump and then the wiring diagram....the wiring will depend on what year the harness is that you are using...:beer: :beer:

ok well after a LONG time in the garage and many beers down...finally got it running and got it all figured out...
key pieces that you need that have to match the harness


DIST (as long as it is EFI) you will be fine

KNOCK Sensor.....the carbed block didnt have the threads in it it DID have a nipple there....i bought a 12mmx1.25 tap (TOOL ZONE) tapped the threads installed knock sensor and hooked up factory harness wire...this needs to be hooked up or it will trip the computer and put it in the LIMP HOME MODE
it will run but it controls the timing advancement....
ignitor depending on what year your harness is there are a couple options on how to hook it up to the ECU....on mine (1990 harness) there were wires there in the factory engine harness that were connected on the ecu for the injectors (super easy hook up) plug in the factory plug

the dist needs to be efi so it can send a signal to the ecu

i left out the opening circuit relay (this allows the fuel pump to run and stop and run) I hard wired mine in through a switch and keyed power...

as long as you have those above items and a wiring diagram for the correct year harness and ECU you should be smooth sailing....

any questions feel free to PM me....
i took mine out this weekend ....HUGE difference....:beer: :beer:

July 2nd, 2006, 12:02 AM
Awesome, doesnt seem too bad, luckily i already have the efi.lol

July 2nd, 2006, 12:08 AM
started tackling the wiring...these steps will take up most of the time...basically have to remove MOST of the dash to access the factory harness....i will give a few step by step posts tomorrow after i get the wiring a little farther along...

July 6th, 2006, 11:12 AM
did you have to change the head to an efi head, or did you use the origanal head?

July 6th, 2006, 12:33 PM
i used the same head (87)...you can use 84 and up heads...the heads have been drilled and tapped at factory with both bolt patterns....

July 6th, 2006, 02:22 PM
Thanks for the write up. I thought efi and carbed motors had different cams, or does it matter?

July 6th, 2006, 04:24 PM
well according to what i have read....they do have a little different cams...but nothing that SHOULD matter...i will get some more up on this as i progress....got my parts today from LC so i should have some time to get it dialed in....

J Kimmel
July 7th, 2006, 10:36 PM
you figure out the wiring yet? Help!

I'm trying to figure out how to lose most of the wiring and vacuum and emissions, simplify!

July 8th, 2006, 06:57 PM
got most of the wiring done....still working on the EFI relay part...

July 24th, 2006, 11:59 AM
Is this thing running yet?

July 24th, 2006, 12:06 PM
truck is now going :D :D

July 24th, 2006, 04:17 PM
Pre EFI engines had a different cam that does not work well with the EFI. Once EFI was offered they put the same cam in regardless of induction. That is according to my parts guy at Toyota. So an 85+ engine should have the correct cam regardless if it came carb'd or EFI. He wasn't sure on the 84 since that was when they did the block height change. His books weren't real clear on that. It listed both cams so he believes it changed mid year. A VIN check should clear up which cam it has.

July 24th, 2006, 04:23 PM
i THINK the cams switched 8/84....but to be safe just get a 85+ hahaha...