CJ Custom Dash

[OlBlueCJ7]

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/OlBlueCJ7/Dash Project/PB240062.jpg

So, the previous owner of my CJ7 had made quite a mess of the dash with trying to install a radio & speakers. The radio hole was crooked, and the original speaker slots had been butchered in order to try & fit different speakers. I had added another hole myself to the left of the steering column to add an in-cab winch remote, and botched that job as well.

In an effort to try & fix this, I trimmed all the openings, and tried to weld in patch panels. My idea was that I could weld in the patch panels, slap a little bondo on it, and it'd be good as new. Long story short, it almost looked worse after I got done with it, than when I started.

I got to thinking I could probably just reverse-design the factory dash, putting it into AutoCAD, and then sending the flat layout out to some places around to see what having one 'cut' would cost. I checked prices on basic 'replacement' dashes, and found them to be ridiculously expensive for a piece of tin. Besides - I wanted to customize mine a bit, so that it looked 'kinda' factory, but more suited to my needs.

I sat down with my dash & my laptop one evening, and a few hours later I had a preliminary layout for my dash. After going back and forth on design & capabilities with the company doing the work (they were awesome to deal with)this is what showed up a few nights later:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/OlBlueCJ7/Dash Project/P1250004.jpg


Originally, my dash was 'loaded' - radio/w speaker grilles, clock & tach. My clock has long since hazed over, but my tachometer is still operable. It was very difficult to see in it's stock location (to the right of the steering column, above the wiper switch). I decided to get rid of the radio & speaker holes, get rid of the clock opening (left side of steering column) and rearrange the oil pressure & voltage gauges so that I could have the factory tach more in the 'center' of the dash, where it would be easier to see.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/OlBlueCJ7/Dash Project/P1250001.jpg

I'm actually have to do a slight redesign on it right now, as the tachometer hits the defroster plenum - I'm just going to relocate the oil & voltage gauges so the reside vertically next to the speedo, rather than horizontally. That will allow me to move the tach down a little, and give the plenum the room it needs.

Oh - did I mention I wanted something a little beefier than the stamped original?

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/OlBlueCJ7/Dash Project/P1250002.jpg


Not sure what factory is (18/20ga maybe?) but I had this one cut out of 11ga. Nice and rigid, without being overkill.

After smashing one of my fingers a couple weeks ago, I hadn't been able to do much work in the garage. Finally though, this past weekend I got some time, and enough dexterity in my hand to work on the project again.

I didn't have the tools or money to build a custom steel glovebox, so I'm using the factory cardboard one for the time being. I made a new glovebox door out of aluminum treadbrite because the factory one wouldn't work.

Here are some pics:

Test fitting the new hinge for the glovebox:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/OlBlueCJ7/Dash Project/P5250012.jpg

Getting ready for paint:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/OlBlueCJ7/Dash Project/P5250013.jpg

First coat of primer on the backside:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/OlBlueCJ7/Dash Project/P5260015.jpg

First coat of color:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/OlBlueCJ7/Dash Project/P5270016.jpg

Two cans of color, two cans of clear, and some gauges:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/OlBlueCJ7/Dash Project/P5280018.jpg

I put new indicators in, but everything else is factory (switches & gauges):
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/OlBlueCJ7/Dash Project/P5280019.jpg

A shot of the glovebox opening:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/OlBlueCJ7/Dash Project/P5280023.jpg

And finally some installed pics:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/OlBlueCJ7/Dash Project/P5280024.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/OlBlueCJ7/Dash Project/P5280025.jpg

The reason I changed the dash was because my old one was a cluttered mess. It had butchered speaker holes, a crooked radio, and was just a general mess. My Jeep came with the factory tach (to the right of the column) and clock (to the left of the column), and I could never see the tach very well past the steering wheel. I relocated the tach out to the center of the dash where it's easier to see, as well as stacking the oil pressure & voltmeter on top of each other rather than the stock configuration of side by side. I also moved the glovebox up a bit for leg room (this dash is about 1/2" shorter than stock).

I'm very happy with how it turned out - huge thanks to www.ironscorpion.com (Clodhopper here on the board) for cutting this out for me, just the way I wanted! Much cheaper than an aftermarket dash, and it's custom.

[CSP]

Looks good. What did you use to bend in the mounting ears for the glovebox? That 11 ga must be tough to bend straight.

[Steve]

That's some quality work, you did an awesome job. :thumbsup:

:beer:

[OlBlueCJ7]

I had a 'slit' made on the ears (right at the base of the bend), and was able to bend them with a pair of crescent wrenches. :)

[jdogg4]

NICE! You know what would make that look really good mark. A nice set of white VDO gauges. :flipoff2:

[flashover]

That is REALLY nice.

[longboy]

Dude, that came out awesome! Nice work-:thumbsup:

[Jefe]

Are you still one-handed??

[OlBlueCJ7]

nope, just nine fingered.

[Jefe]

Schweet.

[Mack]

:rolleyes: Way to blow it and not add cupholders or a bling-o-meter :flipoff2:

Looks good, how many more coats of blue did you do after I left?

[jdogg4]

:rolleyes: Way to blow it and not add cupholders or a bling-o-meter :flipoff2:

Looks good, how many more coats of blue did you do after I left?

X2 hahahaha.

[jdogg4]

http://store.summitracing.com/sitemap2.asp?N=115+400267

[OlBlueCJ7]

:rolleyes: Way to blow it and not add cupholders or a bling-o-meter :flipoff2:

Looks good, how many more coats of blue did you do after I left?

I have yet to find an accurate blingometer, or one that goes high enough for that matter.

Cup holders are going in the console silly. :cool:

I thihnk there's about 6 coats of blue, and about the same of clear.

[OlBlueCJ7]

http://store.summitracing.com/sitemap2.asp?N=115+400267

Thanks for contributing, please try again. :rolleyes:

[jdogg4]

Thanks for contributing, please try again. :rolleyes:

I know you want my set but your not getting them.

[cheepin]

[QUOTE=OlBlueCJ7]
I didn't have the tools or money to build a custom steel glovebox, so I'm using the factory cardboard one for the time being. I made a new glovebox door out of aluminum treadbrite because the factory one wouldn't work.
QUOTE]
Looks good but this does not make any sense to me.Basically it is just a open top box.The same shop could cut you the flat pieces and you just weld them up.You already spent the time and money on have it cut for you,why cut corners now?

[Mack]

Forgot you had a console, My association with Jeeps is that ZJ+XJ> Everything else, simply b/c of the console. ;)

Speaking of which- Do you what a Stock ZJ console? It's complete, with the padded arm rest, storage compartment, cup holders, etc.

[Clod Hopper]

Looks even better painted! I agree that cup holders are silly.....



unless you get a chromed gimble style.:D

[OlBlueCJ7]

Looks good but this does not make any sense to me.Basically it is just a open top box.The same shop could cut you the flat pieces and you just weld them up.You already spent the time and money on have it cut for you,why cut corners now?

Ever tried welding 11ga with 1/8" 7018? Doesn't work so good. :laughing:

[cheepin]

We weld 20 gauge at the sheet metal shop I work in.Of course we use a 110 or the TIG.But it can be done with 1/8" 7018.Just turn the amps down and stitch it.

[OlBlueCJ7]

:rolleyes: I'd pay to see someone weld 20ga (or 11ga for that matter) with 1/8" 7018.

Regardless, it doesn't really matter. This is what I have now, IF I choose, in the future, I can have a steel box made (not sure why for, this one works just fine) and still attach it to this dash with no issues. There's just no need for it. The glovebox can't really be any bigger, and it doesn't lock, so it's a moot point. All it has to do is hold two pieces of paper - insurance, & registration. For that, cardboard works JUST fine. :D :thumbsup:

[thekiffer]

Nice work !!

[cheepin]

:rolleyes: I'd pay to see someone weld 20ga (or 11ga for that matter) with 1/8" 7018.
I said we use the MIG or TIG for 20 gauge.A guy I work with used to weld sheetmetal this thin all the time with a 1/8" rod.He said show him the MONEY!He said he has done as thin as 16 GA.I mean 11 GA is .140",thicker than most cages.:flipoff2: Also you could use thinner GA and solder or rivet it with tabs in the corners.

Anyway just busting your chops.If you do decide you want a steel box let me know.I will build you one out of 16 GA and TIG it up.In fact I think I will build one for my CJ-7.

['86Toyota]

Forgot you had a console.


Well... Most of the materials to build a console anyway..... :P
The pictures simply don't do it justice at all, that dash looks AWESOME in person. Having seen it go from the process of specs being entered into CAD, to a rectangular piece of steel with some holes in it that clodhopper brought over one day, to this is amazing, I'm impressed.... :cool: :hail:
Now why couldn't you have just started with a toytoa so you could share all of these sweet ass blingin parts you build??!! :shrug:

[Colorado_Baja]

Nice work! A dash like that is on the list for my CJ.. Some PO did a crappy job of replaceing it, its all sorts of hacked.. with switches that apear to do nothing...

Greg

[formatt]

love it Mark.. really nice job!!~!

[Chris J]

Can you tell me what you did to prep the dash prior to painting? Also, did you do anything inbetween coats of paint and/or clear? Thanks.

[OlBlueCJ7]

Chris - I cleaned up all the holes so there were no rough edges with a hand file, and proceeded to sand the surface with a chunk of 2x4 wrapped with sand paper.

I think I started with like a 120 grit, then 200, then 300. Gave it all a wipe down with paint thinner, and let it dry. I primed the surface with about three coats of rustoleum's "Clean Metal Primer" (the white stuff), sanding in between coats with 400 grit. Wiped each layer of sanding with a dry paper towel before proceeding to the next.

Once I started with the color, I did basically did the same process, but used like 600 grit (I ran out of 400) in between coats. Once I'd put down half a dozen coats of color, I moved on to the clear, and did the same thing. About 6 coats, sanded lightly in between, and voila.

Sounds like a lot, but the paint dried really fast. I did the primer on like a Friday night, then paint & clear the next day. Let it sit overnight, and installed it on a Sunday.

[crackhead]

Thats sweet as hell.. Great job..

[Chris J]

thanks olblue.