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ZJROCKRIG
May 4th, 2013, 09:15 PM
Traded for a boat back in December from a guy in Whitewater. Found out today the 305 had not been winterized in some point in its life and cracked the block as well as the exhaust manifold.

Looks like they did a fix at some point but who knows when. There is only a slight leak (drip) at the head gasket between the two center cylinders. Other than that the engine runs great, plugs look great and the oil is clean.

Research on the web points to a mix of repaired blocks running forever and replacement. Think I will just run and enjoy it since the cooling system is not pressurized and make sure the bilge pumps work.

Oh and keep a paddle or two handy.

Bastards!:rant::rant::rant:

live4snow
May 5th, 2013, 08:12 AM
When I went to welding school at Emily Griffith, the teacher who had been welding since the 50's told me how he repaired blocks, stripped down, he would slowly heat the block in a bed of coals, then butter in cast iron rod with a oxy acetylene torch. I have not had the opportunity to try this myself yet, but a cool concept though!

Colorado_Baja
May 5th, 2013, 08:27 AM
That sucks..

I have heard of a similar method except this guy said he used a large oven. Never saw it in action though. A bed of coals sounds like it would work better.

PovertyByJeep
May 6th, 2013, 09:01 AM
Don't laugh- but I know of a guy that JB welded a cracked water jacket on an open cooling system in a boat. It actually lasted a few seasons. I would guess it really depends on where the crack is located.

A leak AT the head gasket sounds fishy (see what I did there?). There is additional beef built into the block (and heads) where they mate to prevent warping. Also- the water passages aren't close to the outside of the block (check Google for a 350 head gasket image), so I doubt the gasket failed from freezing.

If the motor was COMPLETELY full of water (enough to have water that high in the motor), you would see cracked exhaust logs, freeze plugs pushed out (or replaced to cover it up), etc. I've personally never heard of a motor freezing and blowing out the head gasket- it takes out other components first.

My personal guess is water pump failure in the outdrive (ran it out of the water), and overheated the motor. If you have only ran it on the muffs- it may still be bad. Your hose will force water up through the "bad" pump into the motor. On the lake- a bad pump won't draw any water into the motor.

Anyway- these are all total guesses. Owning an inboard in colorado is tough- kinda like forgetting to blow out sprinklers or turning them on too early. Except this is an engine that gets ruined!

ZJROCKRIG
May 6th, 2013, 10:20 AM
Looks like whoever did it actually ground everything down on the block and exhaust and then used some type of epoxy. The "Mercruiser" raised logo on the exhaust manifold/heat exchanger is ground away. Some of the epoxy on the heat exchanger is starting to lift.

What's suspicious took is there is a Jasper reman engine sticker on it. The guy I got it from claims to be the 2nd owner never had an engine replaced, and when I asked about freezing etc he stated he always had it winterized and serviced at the end if year.

So either it ran line this for him for 10 years or he lied.

Boat only has 350 hrs on the clock and is a '95. If it stops raining I will try to post pics.

I also did use the water muffs for about 30 minutes and engine did great, no overheating act. Actually ran cooler at 1/2 to full throttle.

PovertyByJeep
May 6th, 2013, 12:12 PM
Oh, man- that sounds suspect to me. Yikes.

Like I said- the repair I personally saw was at the bottom of a block on a 4.3. He ran it a few seasons and it started to leak again. I've never personally seen a manifold "repaired" by epoxy. I would think that the heat cycles would destroy the repair.

CSP
May 12th, 2013, 10:12 PM
Caterpillar actually has an epoxy that will survive heat/cool cycles of an engine. It's also extremely expensive and it's not likely to ever find anyone who knows about it outside of mechanics who regularly work on Cat engines.

Bummer about this engine. I'm always leary of people wanting to trade vehicles/toys/etc.. It seems like stuff like this happens too often with trades.

ZJROCKRIG
May 12th, 2013, 11:11 PM
I talked to a boat mechanic yesterday at the local boat shop. Surprisingly he said just run it if its not pouring water out of the block. He mentioned he has seen and serviced many cracked and repaired blocks through the shop.

Interestingly enough he said the crack being sealed with the epoxy on the outside will eventually seal itself inside due to rust since the engine just has lake water running through it. Although can imagine that has got to be hard on the water pump.

This makes sense due to when I first ran it with the water muffs, I noticed a lot of crap came out of the block drains.

It will be nice to get it out on the lake soon. I spent the last couple days cleaning up the PO butchered stereo wiring and then added a second switched battery. Removed a way too big lounge seat and will be adding a folding jump seat instead.:cool:

Oh and PBJ, I could not find anything about a WP in the out drive. Its an Alpha One. Is it just the WP on the engine that circulates?

PovertyByJeep
May 13th, 2013, 09:12 AM
Water pump link- http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/SIE-18-3320/Water+Pump+Kit.html?utm_source=feed&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google&gclid=COHgv5Wuk7cCFfNxMgodGQMAKA

The little rubber "Star Wheel" looking thing burns up REALLY quick if ran without water. Plus it gets old and the ends crack off. It is actually not too hard to replace (I've done one in a campground). It is in the lower section of the outdrive. I am sure there are Youtube videos of the procedure.

If you are going to run it with the cracked block, watch the oil REALLY close for signs of water (milky while running). The water will quickly destroy the rest of the motor if it leaks INTO the motor.

ZJROCKRIG
May 14th, 2013, 08:52 PM
Got everything cleaned up, dual batteries, new stereo, had to rewire everything the PO touched, need to do plugs and wires and registration, and maybe, just maybe, this weekend we will see if it floats.

Should, boat is very nice, clean and solid on the outside. Inside is nice. Actually looks like a 5 year old boat instead of an 18 year old boat.:thumbsup:

ZJROCKRIG
May 20th, 2013, 11:03 PM
It works it works!:cool:

Ran out to Vallecito lake for about 3 hours and engine ran great, stayed cool, and boat rode and handled nice. :thumbsup:

Thats a load off my mind at least. Now I got to remember to trim that out drive up before I rip it off of there loading the boat. Almost did that twice. Got distracted when the board inspectors wanted to see it drain.

http://pbr1170.photobucket.com/albums/r534/zjrockrig/1995%20Sea%20Ray%20Signature%20220/A14D66EA-orig.jpg?t=1367206034

http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r534/zjrockrig/1995%20Sea%20Ray%20Signature%20220/th_FB_IMG_13689202617687576.jpg

PovertyByJeep
May 22nd, 2013, 11:38 AM
Glad to hear it ran good for you! The ANS inspectors usually remind everyone 3-4 times to raise the outdrive. I sure will be glad when we get rid of those little buggers, and can eliminate the inspections!

Just ran into a person here at work in a similar situation. I've been trying to convince them to "just run it", but am not having much luck. There's is cracked 1/4 of the way up the water jacket.

ZJROCKRIG
May 29th, 2013, 10:25 AM
So one more update. Boat ran great all Memorial day weekend at Vallecito lake. Usually had 2 to 6 people plus gear and a few dogs in it. Left it buoyed at the marina all 3 days and it did not take on water or sink!:thumbsup:

I think the elevation there is about 8000 feet. Boat ran at 4000 rpm and 33 mph full throttle no matter if there we're 2 people or 6 and gear. Not sure what pitch the prop is. Engine is a 5.0 (305 GM with a small 1bbl carb) Someone mentioned should run around 4400 rpm???

So turns out to be a pretty fun and solid boat thankfully.:cool:

PovertyByJeep
May 30th, 2013, 08:59 AM
Very few V8 boats will turn 4400 rpm with the exhaust through the drive (unless you have a crazy flat prop on it) because of the restriction. It is smaller than a single automotive 3" exhaust pipe, with water running through it. Add the elevation in there, and I doubt you'll see that RPM. Plus, with the colorado speed limit 36, there is no need to go faster. The fact that additional weight didn't slow the boat down says the motor was done at that RPM for some reason- jetting, exhaust, cam profile- something.

With my through the hull exhaust, my ancient small block ford will turn just over 4000 up at Shadow Mountain, running a hair under 45mph- which feels like 250mph in a boat!

ZJROCKRIG
May 30th, 2013, 10:40 AM
Thanks PBJ, you have been a lot of help.

Never knew there was a speed limit. And yep, seems like you fly on the water ones it planes out.

Once it warms up some more I will be happy to see how it pulls skiers and such. I don't think in will use the wakeboard tower much. Right now it it serves great as a clothes and life vest dryer more than anything LOL!

PovertyByJeep
May 30th, 2013, 12:35 PM
Colorado speed limit is 40- I probably should have Googled that before I posted based on memory. I was positive it was 36 because I remember thinking, "why such a random number?" That must have been for a specific lake.

I wish I could afford to put a wake tower on my boat- mainly for storage- get the wakeboards and skiis off the floor! I'd add that and a Perfect Pass system and be super happy!

BTW- if you haven't tried it- wakeboarding is a blast. I am a die hard slalom guy- that rarely puts the ski on anymore. Wakeboarding is tons of fun, plus you go quite a bit slower, so it doesn't hurt too much when you crash.

Glad your boat is working out!

PovertyByJeep
May 30th, 2013, 12:39 PM
OK- so I just saw in chit chat that you are having back troubles- no wakeboarding for you (yet). My brother in law had back surgury and finally got 100% released- drug him behind the boat a bit last year.... grinning ear to ear!