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guapotaco
December 13th, 2010, 07:07 PM
got a starter problem on my 2000 dodge, it is burning fuses and i have looked all over and there are 3 possible fixes.
1. get a new starter(denso), close to $400 with heavy duty contacts from foster's( cheapest i found and has heavy duty contacts)
2.try and rebuild contact/ solenoid from fosters, dont know anyone around here to see if the whole thing is shot, our local auto electric place just closed.
3. remained from napa or equivalant about $200 but dont know where it was built/rebuilt or what it is... guess i could physically check it out but i dont see napa having denso starters. then replace with heavy contacts before i install it.
truck has almost 180k and i will assume the original starter but cant be sure, i think it is time to just throw down and get a new one as i am slowly but surly getting all of these components new. last 3 months, new vp, new cps, new lp, now starter and cks, only have a few other items and i have all new parts bolted on this thing

hightimes2
December 13th, 2010, 07:21 PM
I just have a autozone starter in my 99 cummins and has been working great so far

guapotaco
December 13th, 2010, 07:39 PM
I just have a autozone starter in my 99 cummins and has been working great so far

is it a denso brand? does it have a lifetime warranty?
i want to stick with good stuff so i dont have to touch it for a long time, i will get a cheap one if i have to and replace the contacts with heavy units before i install it but i would rather not

hightimes2
December 13th, 2010, 07:52 PM
not sure brand but lifetime warranty

meatballs
December 13th, 2010, 09:48 PM
Www.rockauto.com. Usually cheaper than most but have to pay shipping

COcummins
December 13th, 2010, 09:51 PM
I've got a vatozone starter in my '96, hadn't had any issues with it for the 4 years it's been in the truck.

you could also try this http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=LB-R90SS the vacuum pump I got from Geno's did the trick perfectly for my '93.

guapotaco
December 13th, 2010, 10:02 PM
i dont think a rebuild is what i need at this point, 180k and i dont want to have to go back in there anytime soon

guapotaco
December 13th, 2010, 10:10 PM
Www.rockauto.com. Usually cheaper than most but have to pay shipping

looks like my local napa is cheaper for a remaned, might not be a denso though, dont know if it really matters but i dont want to have to keep replacing things all the time, but if it has a life time warranty, the extra $200 could go along way, did any of you do the heavy duty contacts? i think even if i go cheap the $30 for those hd contacts will make this thing last alot longer than the standard contacts that semm to only last a 100k or so, seem most just replace those and keep rolling but with this many miles...
i want another 180k on this next one, didnt know that if the starter contacts stick open then it fries your fuel solenoid as well
everyday i learn 5 more things to go wrong on these rigs and to start saving, now whatevr happened to modding my crawler.. that was actually fun, oh yea, i keep emptying my wallet on this stupid dodge

ni0h
December 13th, 2010, 10:53 PM
It sounds like just the bendix. The main power path is un-fused. Definitely not a bad motor.
Or do those diesels actually have 400-amp fuses on the main starter lead?

guapotaco
December 14th, 2010, 02:21 AM
It sounds like just the bendix. The main power path is un-fused. Definitely not a bad motor.
Or do those diesels actually have 400-amp fuses on the main starter lead?

only way i got it home was to bypass fuse so it would start, so yea motor still works but... how much life could be left at 180k? i dont think new contacts are what needs to happen or i will be doing this again too soon, i am getting a new one at some point, rig will sit for at least a month due to being holidays etc...
now i have a new leak on the front of the engine as well, guess i have more things to replace and repair already, humm, front main?, power steering?, vacuum pump?, come on only a few more things to replace and i have covered everything, my rear drum is full of fluid too from a bad seal, i love winter and working outside on my truck that seems to always need work:thumbsdown:
i'm over this truck, lots & lots of coin, time and effort and a bad learning curve since i'm not a diesel mechanic and am learning how these work as it keeps breaking down:headbang::rant:

guapotaco
December 14th, 2010, 02:29 AM
It sounds like just the bendix. The main power path is un-fused. Definitely not a bad motor.
Or do those diesels actually have 400-amp fuses on the main starter lead?

does your name happen to be Bill?

78cj
December 14th, 2010, 09:01 AM
the starter from NAPA is a denso gear reduction
i run your local NAPA i have new in stock 208.09 with lifetime warranty
let me know what you need
Rick

Chris Halvorson
December 14th, 2010, 10:30 AM
only way i got it home was to bypass fuse so it would start, so yea motor still works but... how much life could be left at 180k? i dont think new contacts are what needs to happen or i will be doing this again too soon, i am getting a new one at some point, rig will sit for at least a month due to being holidays etc...

There can and most likely is plenty of life in your starter.

now i have a new leak on the front of the engine as well, guess i have more things to replace and repair already, humm, front main?, power steering?, vacuum pump?

Have you emptied your crankcase vent bottle lately? Power steering pump is 89.00 and the rebuild kit for the vacuum pump is 50.00. They are mated to one another, so I would do this as a pair.:idea:

, come on only a few more things to replace and i have covered everything, my rear drum is full of fluid too from a bad seal, i love winter and working outside on my truck that seems to always need work:thumbsdown:

If my truck was leaking gear oil, I would stop driving it. First off your breaks are needed in all cases, and the rear seal is easy to replace. I would do both sides.

i'm over this truck, lots & lots of coin, time and effort and a bad learning curve since i'm not a diesel mechanic and am learning how these work as it keeps breaking down:headbang::rant:

Most of your problems have nothing to do with being a "diesel mechanic". It is called being a mechanic. Other than your Injection pump going out, everything else is the same on a gasser that you have had issues with (unless you do have a vacuum pump leak...no vacuum pumps on gassers). You have to pay to play. You want a diesel, now you have to pay for one. A good diesel mechanic is going to be over 90.00 an hour(more like 105) or start doing it yourself. What do you think the rest of us do?

People need to understand that diesels are awesome for towing, fuel economy (some are better than others), and even racing. People also need to understand and research a vehicle before they buy one. There are several well documented things on different brand diesels that are "problem areas" and need to be addressed. Since you have a 2000 Dodge...
-LP...get a good one
-VP-44 IP with a good LP last anywere from 100-150K. Some go longer...but most fall into this mileage range. This also depends on where you get your "new" IP. If you go the el cheapo route...I have seen them last a week. Get a quality one from someone like Blue Chip Diesel, Bosch, and or Midwest Fuel Injection. Find out how they rebuild the IP...do they replace the computer in the VP? Do they replace the VP body or upgrade it? If any of those questions are no...go to the next place.
-Steering sucks...do some research. Mine works fine at 136K miles.
-47RE autos.. those are just wrong..
-NV4500 needs a little mod so you don't loose 5th gear.


My brother is about to buy a really clean 2001 Dodge 2500 HO truck. I gave him a list of things he needed to have checked on it by a mechanic before purchase (Fuel System, Leak down test...etc). This did cost him a little out of pocket, but it is a lot better than a lot of money out of pocket later...and the truck checked out good. The first thing he is going to do is:
-FASS or Airdog lift pump...because the IP are really expensive aren't they?
-Gauges...because it is nice to monitor fuel pressure, EGT's..and whatever else you want.
-Valve lash adjustment (the truck has 125K miles on it, it is overdue)

Just out of curiosity, when is the last time you adjusted the valve lash?

If your not willing to pay or do the proper maintenance on a diesel motor, go get a gasser...seriously. If you think any other diesel at 180K miles doesn't require just a little maintenance you are kidding yourself.

You sound like you need some help. PM me if you want to chat about it.

Jeff Mason
December 14th, 2010, 10:43 AM
Since this post is here, and is talking about starter fuses, can someone provide some insight as to where those are located? My son's 1999 2500 would not start last night (all gauges work, electric doors lock and unlock, windows do NOT work now). Everything worked fine right before this started...

We've not had time to diagnose, but some ideas on what may be going on would be helpful.


/end hijack/

guapotaco
December 14th, 2010, 11:37 AM
People need to understand that diesels are awesome for towing, fuel economy (some are better than others), and even racing. People also need to understand and research a vehicle before they buy one. There are several well documented things on different brand diesels that are "problem areas" and need to be addressed. Since you have a 2000 Dodge...
-LP...get a good one
-VP-44 IP with a good LP last anywere from 100-150K. Some go longer...but most fall into this mileage range. This also depends on where you get your "new" IP. If you go the el cheapo route...I have seen them last a week. Get a quality one from someone like Blue Chip Diesel, Bosch, and or Midwest Fuel Injection. Find out how they rebuild the IP...do they replace the computer in the VP? Do they replace the VP body or upgrade it? If any of those questions are no...go to the next place.
-Steering sucks...do some research. Mine works fine at 136K miles.
-47RE autos.. those are just wrong..
-NV4500 needs a little mod so you don't loose 5th gear.


My brother is about to buy a really clean 2001 Dodge 2500 HO truck. I gave him a list of things he needed to have checked on it by a mechanic before purchase (Fuel System, Leak down test...etc). This did cost him a little out of pocket, but it is a lot better than a lot of money out of pocket later...and the truck checked out good. The first thing he is going to do is:
-FASS or Airdog lift pump...because the IP are really expensive aren't they?
-Gauges...because it is nice to monitor fuel pressure, EGT's..and whatever else you want.
-Valve lash adjustment (the truck has 125K miles on it, it is overdue)

Just out of curiosity, when is the last time you adjusted the valve lash?

If your not willing to pay or do the proper maintenance on a diesel motor, go get a gasser...seriously. If you think any other diesel at 180K miles doesn't require just a little maintenance you are kidding yourself.

You sound like you need some help. PM me if you want to chat about it.

believe me chris i know and have everything you have listed here already:valves adjusted, new hd auto tranny, bc vp, raptor lp, all guages, all new front axle parts, f and r brakes, new steering etc...
my truck has been broken down most of the year and i aint no rich guy so spending thousands on this thing and not having a truck to drive puts a damper on my life style and i do all my work outside and it sux to have to keep fixing this thing continuously it seems, i have more than just put a little time/efffort/$ into this rig in 3-4 years i have owned it, i'm not a good mechanic but i cant afford to pay someone either so i suffer serious brain damage to get things done, and it seems i am at the point where everything starts to fail and its sub 20 degrees out and i dont want to work in these conditions to fiqure out all the things that need fixed now, i just really want a reliable rig and tow rig, i wish i had broke down and just bought a tundra but thought i needed this diesel to tow my junk, didnt now what i do now or i would have done something different for sure after all the headaches, now i have too much $ into this rig and cant sell it
so would you replace this starter? what kind of life span do these have? the $30 contacts is sure cheaper but dont want to go in there and have to do this again anytime soon since i have many other issues to address to get this ready to actually tow and go wheel next year, all my plans for the crawler are done because of all the issues that have come up lately with the dodge, it just gets very frustrating when all i do is work on this thing instead of out enjoying life, i have almost spent what i paid for the rig just in repairs and i have alot more to come

78cj
December 14th, 2010, 12:45 PM
im sure you have done this,but have you checked for voltage drop from batteries to starter? if your cables and connections have corrosion on them can cause problems also.
high amp draw will blow fuse.

Chris Halvorson
December 14th, 2010, 01:19 PM
78cj...good point and you need a good connection for these trucks. They start doing some really weird stuff...don't get me started on 3rd gens and battery connections.

So it sounds like you are trying to keep it running..and sometimes you just get a lemon. I don't know the miles that were on the rig when you bought it...but that is a lot of stuff to go wrong. The trany is a given, IP is given if bad LP....and so on.

I hear you on working in the cold...I have done it, but don't prefer it. It is a tough call, you have a truck that has high miles, put a lot of work/money into it, and it is still crapping out on you. I had the same issues with my 04.5 CTD (only it had low miles), finally decided to let it go. Loved it...it was just costing my family way too much, and my Jeep/vacation funds were depleted. That sucked. (one bill was over 5500.00..and that is me doing the work)

This time I did some serious research and when I found the truck I wanted came available, bought my Diesel Mech. and myself a plane ticket and flew to southern Alabama and bought my truck from a friend. Is this truck anywhere as nice as my 3rd gen? Hell no, it is loud, not as comfortable, rides not even close, and now I have a 6 speed (this is a plus in my book). The truck has been very reliable so far in the past 40K miles (longer than I ever went in my 3rd gen without repairs)

I would replace the contacts. I have no idea what kind of lifespan is on your starter. If you or someone else was cranking on the starter for more that 10 seconds a lot, it could crap out tomorrow. It just depends on how it was used. It only takes a few minutes to drop the starter anyway...that is an easy one. The PS/Vacuum pump is a PITA for only 3 studs.

Sometimes you have to cut your losses and start over. I did it, and even bought another dodge due to half of my friends getting wonderful reliability for 200K+ miles without issues (these trucks are modded heavily too). Will my next truck be a diesel? Maybe...maybe not. I was going to buy a 32'+ Toy hauler to haul the jeep and camp...but I have changed my mind just in case one of those new Tundras come available at a great price. Flatbed and slide in please....LOL.

guapotaco
December 14th, 2010, 03:57 PM
all connections are good, new starter will be the ticket when i have the cash, i cant afford to sell this thing or pay for any other vehicle at this point so i am stuck with this thing for now and will just have to keep plugging away on everything to make it run, tripleA is first on my list next spring so when i am out towing again(BIG IF) so i can at least get towed and drive the crawler home

so let me guess you got a 12v... wish thats what i had, not really, would rather have a tundra at this point but a 12v would sure be nice compared to this nightmare, my buddy never has to touch his besides to drive it, this truck was set up good and thats why i got it, i knew there would be a few things, but the few things has come and gone many times over, knowing what i know now i would have been looking at something else
it probably doesnt hurt that your buddy runs a diesel shop to help you out with things, wish i had rob over here as my truck would just have gone to his shop and i would just take out another loan to pay him to fix it all, i dont know any good diesel guys over here so i am on my own with all this, learning curve went in a circle and is spiining out of control, granted i am learning alot, but i want to learn about fabbing and working on my crawler, not be a diesel mechanic

Chris Halvorson
December 14th, 2010, 04:31 PM
all connections are good, new starter will be the ticket when i have the cash, i cant afford to sell this thing or pay for any other vehicle at this point so i am stuck with this thing for now and will just have to keep plugging away on everything to make it run, tripleA is first on my list next spring so when i am out towing again(BIG IF) so i can at least get towed and drive the crawler home

That is the attitude to have. Keep plugging away and it will end up being in your favor..one way or another.:D The rear seals are easy to do. There are some good websites out there. I would say Dieselram...but we are down right now due to a table error that is kicking our ass. Here is a good informative site...

http://dodgeram.org/

www.cumminsforum.com is another.


so let me guess you got a 12v... wish thats what i had, not really, would rather have a tundra at this point but a 12v would sure be nice compared to this nightmare, my buddy never has to touch his besides to drive it, this truck was set up good and thats why i got it, i knew there would be a few things, but the few things has come and gone many times over, knowing what i know now i would have been looking at something else

Nope..in my signature...02 CTD HO truck..so we basically have the same truck minus the 6 speed, VP-44 is different, Compression ratio is different, Turbo is different...well you get the point..:D If I wanted a 12V, I would have got one...but I didn't. The 12V are great motors, I just don't like messing with setting timing, changing P-pumps to larger CC ones (EXPENSIVE).
it probably doesnt hurt that your buddy runs a diesel shop to help you out with things, wish i had rob over here as my truck would just have gone to his shop and i would just take out another loan to pay him to fix it all, i dont know any good diesel guys over here so i am on my own with all this, learning curve went in a circle and is spiining out of control, granted i am learning alot, but i want to learn about fabbing and working on my crawler, not be a diesel mechanic


No doubt in my mind that Rob has helped me out big time. He likes to teach more than anything. He took me under his wing when the local 5 star wadded up my 3rd gen motor and then they voided my warranty and said it was my problem...without even knowing me. I parked my truck up in his shop for a few months, we built it up (Removed head and shaved .006 due to compression lock, turbo, smarty, exhaust manifold, exhaust, injectors, head studs...). I do all my own work now except build my own injectors since I don't have the test stand to pop test the injectors (Rob does).

You may start to look into injectors, at 180K miles, they are coming to the end of their lives. You can get brand new Bosch 300 HP (RV 40 HP) for 365.00+ shipping. They are easy to install.


You have a PM.

guapotaco
December 14th, 2010, 07:58 PM
right on, i will get this beast up to par one day i hope, i have just needed to blow some steam as i just got the new vp and lp installed this last month and here i am broke down again, i have barely driven it 100 miles since then

guapotaco
December 14th, 2010, 08:15 PM
Since this post is here, and is talking about starter fuses, can someone provide some insight as to where those are located? My son's 1999 2500 would not start last night (all gauges work, electric doors lock and unlock, windows do NOT work now). Everything worked fine right before this started...

We've not had time to diagnose, but some ideas on what may be going on would be helpful.


/end hijack/
fuse box in engine compartment, 20a starter

COcummins
December 15th, 2010, 12:51 AM
guapotaco, I feel your pain, I've almost thrown in the towel a couple time's on my '93 which i've done the trans, clutch, t-case, injector pump, radiator, rear diff, rear breaks, valves, electrical gremlins up the A$$, exhaust, king pins, p/s pump, steering gear box, vacuum pump, break booster, master cylinder, and some other stuff i've forgoten. all between buying it at 195k miles and it's current ~200k.

Like chris said, some are good and some are lemons, my '93 was just really neglected, my 96' has been almost trouble free(outside of damages from wheeling it).

pcorssmit
December 15th, 2010, 01:36 PM
I've had my '97 for 10 years. The first time the starter went out, I filed the contacts (to get my by for a few days) and ordered new ones from Foster. The next time the contacts went out, the rest of the starter had seen better days as well, so I replaced it with a lifetime warranty one from Napa. That one went out after ~5-6 years, I called up Napa and they had another one on the shelf, swapped it out no problem.

My $.02 - If you plan to keep it for a while, buy the Napa one and be done with it. If you need to get by for a few days or get to work in the morning and Napa is already closed, file down the contacts (if there's anything left of them), and go to Napa on the way home or on payday. And keep a hammer in the truck until then incase you need to tap on the starter to get home.

Pete

guapotaco
December 15th, 2010, 04:50 PM
I've had my '97 for 10 years. The first time the starter went out, I filed the contacts (to get my by for a few days) and ordered new ones from Foster. The next time the contacts went out, the rest of the starter had seen better days as well, so I replaced it with a lifetime warranty one from Napa. That one went out after ~5-6 years, I called up Napa and they had another one on the shelf, swapped it out no problem.

My $.02 - If you plan to keep it for a while, buy the Napa one and be done with it. If you need to get by for a few days or get to work in the morning and Napa is already closed, file down the contacts (if there's anything left of them), and go to Napa on the way home or on payday. And keep a hammer in the truck until then incase you need to tap on the starter to get home.

Pete

truck is done and will sit for a while, it starts with just bypassing the fuse and i can get a new denso from my local napa for just over $200, sweet, i am going to do the heavy duty contacts before i even put it in then deal with the 10 other things that have come up the last couple months
thxs guys

rocktoy
December 16th, 2010, 12:36 AM
wow dude wow

guapotaco
December 16th, 2010, 03:04 PM
wow dude wow

yep, thing is kicking my ass, and my wallet hurts too, hehehehe, hope your well pimptoy

rocktoy
December 16th, 2010, 09:42 PM
all's good

give a call

Pimp